Loctite or Anti-seize?

[Crisis]

Gents,
I'm in the process of re-installing my front and rear suspension and steering. Where should I use Loctite and where should I use anti-seize? Or should I use neither? Any suggestions or your own personal methods are appreciated.

 

[TR4]

I can only recommend using Anti-seize since I cannot think of a place where you would never ever take it apart again.

 

[DrEntropy]

If you use proper fasteners and lock washers, toruqe to spec, the LocTite is more enemy than friend (just as TR4 says) as YOU will be the one likely to disassemble it next time. Anti-Seize on the other hand will facilitate that inevitable disassembly.

 

[DNK]

Always trust your Dr. is what I always say!

 

[Tinkerman]

The Doctor is in, and correct IMHO.

Tinkerman

 

[TR3driver]

Note please that "proper fasteners" includes replacing most lock washers, lock tabs, nyloc nuts and safety wire.

IMO, Loctite is a suitable substitute (in most cases) for all those items; but of course since Triumph did not originally specify it's use, you are undertaking modifications of safety-critical items. I don't use it on suspension fasteners (instead I buy lockwashers & Nylocs in bulk

); but do use it in some other places, with due consideration to future disassembly.

I'm told that, after due consideration, my employer has nearly eliminated use of all other threadlocking devices and now uses Loctite in most places. Not to brag, but they might just know a few things about tractor engines ...

 

[billspit]

I believe most of my suspension parts are fastened with Nyloc nuts. I use Loctite whenever I want something critical to stay snug. I use the medium strength and never have any problem loosening it.

 

[DrEntropy]

...Not to brag, but they might just know a few things about tractor engines ...

Chief among 'em that it ain't comin' apart again any time soon!! :laugh:

I have absolutely NOTHING against LocTite, BTW. I put it (a tiny DROP, High on the threads) on head studs. Much to Hap's disapproval...

But for these cars, new nuts/bolts/washers is more than adequate. And just for a laugh, you can always go stark raving loonie and do this in place of locktabs/LocTite:

 

[TR3driver]

The factory actually did use a fair amount of safety wire on an original TR3A, eg transmission front cover bolts, clutch fork pin, gearbox shift fork pins (all I can think of offhand, but I'm sure there's more).

And just to be clear, I'm not arguing that the original locking methods were inadequate (although my driveshaft bolts always had a tendency to back off); only that Loctite is sometimes a reasonable/adequate/acceptable substitute (especially late Saturday night when you've just used your last new Nyloc and need to leave before the stores open Sunday).

Except of course on head nuts

 

[DrEntropy]

The BLOCK end, Randall. Not th' NUTS.

*sheesh*

:laugh:

 

[TRED]

I like to use anti-seize any time a bolt go's into aluminium

 

[RonMacPherson]

EXCEPT for the rear trailing arm studs.

Triumph did a wrong thing when they installed fine threads on the steel studs that are screwed into the trailing arms, the ones that the backing plates and the axle hubs bolt to.

On those(if I ever have a stud come loose) I install the stud with red loctite where it goes into the aluminum housing. IF I can't find a coarse thread/fine thread stud and tap the holes for coarse threads.