General TR Lock tab vs Loctite

[cjimj]

What's the consensus on using Loctite instead of the original lock tabs? From what I've read the lock tabs are made of fairly soft material, which could compromise the torque/tension of the bolt.

My thought is replacing the lock tab with a hardened washer and using Loctite for torque retension would result in a better joint.

Am I missing anything?

Thanks,
Jim

 

[cjimj]

After posting it dawned on me I should have said that I'm talking about lock tabs anywhere BUT on the connecting rods. I've got a 4A that doesn't have lock tabs on the connecting rod bolts.

Jim

 

[TuffTR250]

The mechanic helping me rebuild the TR4A engine that is in my TR3 did not use the lock tabs on the connecting rods. He used red Loctite. Probably overkill, but I did put the lock tabs on the flywheel bolts in addition to using red Loctite.
Regards,
Bob

 

[TR3driver]

I quit using locktabs a long time ago, based on advice from Kas Kastner and Carroll Smith. No failures yet; but it does require some care to get the threads (both sides) absolutely free from oil and dirt. The slightest film of oil will keep the Loctite from binding.

Also need to check that the bolts aren't too long without the tab. Hasn't been a problem for me, but it has for some people.

 

[cjimj]

Thanks, I figured replacing the lock tab with a hardened washer would eliminate the risk of the bolt being too long, plus the hardened washer would give a little more bearing area. I might even assemble a couple of test joints to make sure I'm getting everything clean enough. Does something like Brakleen remove the oil well enough?

Jim

 

[TR3driver]

Does something like Brakleen remove the oil well enough?

Should do. I generally use carb cleaner.