Little Cooling Problem

[Dudly]

Afternoon everyone, hope everyone is enjoying this beautiful day, I know I am. Anyhoo, not wishing to bring about a heated debate like I did on my motor oil question (used the Brad Penn "green oil" and so far so good). I noticed while re-locating my fuel filter that I have a small wet spot at my radiator. It appears to be where the "fins" meet the bottom tank, around the area of the bottom hose. Question: 1. Are any of the "stop leak" products worth anything, 2. would a radiator shop be able to re-seal, or 3. am I just wasting time, should I just bite the bullet and buy a new radiator.


Going to Mid-Ohio in a couple weeks, 3 hr drive for me, I really don't want to get stuck on any country road heading to/from the race, regardless of how beautiful the backdrop is.

Thanks

 

[tdskip]

Pull it - not that hard and honestly now, aren't you going to worry about it if you try a short-cut? Believe me, I understand the temptation of a quick fix but not worth it on something as critical as cooling system.

I bet you can get a upgraded/re-core pretty cheap compared to towing etc...

 

[roofman]

I would only consider stop leak to get me home, not as a fix. Take it out and get it checked, or a new one is about $200. Don't risk an overheat.

 

[Andrew Mace]

I agree: most of the "powder" products are temporary at best. Honestly, ground pepper works almost as well. I personally stay away from some of the liquid products (one in particular that looked a bit like thick honey with tapioca in it) after a very bad experience with same in my Triumph Mayflower years ago.

Even if you only blow a head gasket as a result of an overheating episode, parts and labor there are about the same as a recore, so....

 

[Mark Jones]

I had my original radiator recored. I took it in one day and had it back two days later.

 

[Dudly]

Thanks guys, sound and logical advice as usual.

 

[TR3driver]

I agree with all the above, except that I have found that Aluma-Seal brand (looks like flakes of aluminum in a plastic tube) actually works pretty good for radiator leaks if the remainder of the system is reasonably clean.

But if you are home and have the time, money, etc. I would definitely take it out and over to your local radiator shop. They can best tell you what the options are; whether it can be repaired or not and how long a repair is likely to last.

And consider yourself lucky : to pull the radiator on a TR3 you start by removing the front bumper and work your way back.

 

[Andrew Mace]

I agree with all the above, except that I have found that Aluma-Seal brand (looks like flakes of aluminum in a plastic tube) actually works pretty good for radiator leaks if the remainder of the system is reasonably clean....

Randall, thanks for the reminder! That's the one brand I found that really seemed fairly useful and (such as it is) durable. In fact, it helped keep an old Subaru radiator going far longer than it should have...right up to the day that most of the cooling fins literally blew out from between the tubes!

 

[GilsTR]

Sounds like the Spit rad will have to be replace...someday.
I'd do it now...and enjoy a good nights sleep while traveling.
Gil

 

[pjsmetana]

I'd do it now...and enjoy a good nights sleep while traveling.
Gil

Hopefully thats not sleeping while driving