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lightweight flywheel-do or don't

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i think i'll go for it when dollars available
rob

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/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
Get the ARP bolts along with their special sauce.
Don't use lock tabs (if that was original)
Remember that aluminum expands & contracts more than steel so this requires perfectly torqued/stretched fasteners.
(This means a CALIBRATED Mac, Snap-On or equivalent quality torque wrench)
Read the instructions about proper torquing technique.

There is a lot of hostility in a 6000 rpm flywheel. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
Get the ARP bolts along with their special sauce.
Don't use lock tabs (if that was original)
Remember that aluminum expands & contracts more than steel so this requires perfectly torqued/stretched fasteners.
(This means a CALIBRATED Mac, Snap-On or equivalent quality torque wrench)
Read the instructions about proper torquing technique.


[/ QUOTE ]

Hi,

Add to the excellent suggestions above...

On a TR4, drill and tap to increase the number of flywheel bolts from the stock 4 to 8... especially if using an aluminum flywheel.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
On our Spridget race cars we use light flywheels, either alloy or steel nrmally around 8 pounds, in no way would I recommend this for the street, most common compliant is the car is hard to get going from a dead start, not a concern for a race car. On tranny gearing my first gear in my racing gearboxes is 1.60 or 1.65, which allows me to use first gear on the track in the slower corners.
 
Hap - glad to see you made it over here...don't forget, I still want an aluminum flywheel for the MGB GT that I'm gonna convert back from V6 to original for HSR after the GRM Challenge.
 
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