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TR6 LIGHT restoration of TR6 floors and chassis?

MTribe

Jedi Hopeful
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I want to paint the floor boards and perhaps protect/paint the front part of the chassis while I have the engine out of my TR6.

I've searched threads on rust treatment/prevention--POR15, Eastwood rust encapsulator, Rust Bullet, etc. Unfortunately, I don't have the time to do the most "100% correct," most durable treatment. Ideally, I'd take one weekend to prep the surfaces, then have the paint guy paint the engine bay and floors the following weekend.

The car is original CA in excellent original condition, with some light surface rust on the floor boards the only rust I'm aware of. The chassis looks as new as you could imagine on a 1971 car. I live in CA where I will only drive in rain a couple times/year. I plan to keep the car the rest of my life.

My current plan:

Floors: I bought Jasco Prep and Prime rust converter. I will scrape and wire brush loose rust and paint off, then paint on the converter. Then degrease with simple green and have the paint guy prime and paint it.

Chassis: Given I was thinking about doing nothing, thought maybe I'd degrease exposed chassis members with simple green, then brush on the rust converter, then spray some rustoleum or equivalent.

Anyone have any tips on the "quick n'dirty" version of floor board rust and chassis rust treatment? I acknowledge I won't be doing it the "right" way--I'm only looking for something better than nothing with the time I have.

Thanks!
 
D

DougF

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I've used rust converter with excellent results. I prefer it over POR15.
I would scuff all painted surfaces with Scotch Brite pads to allow for better paint adhesion.
Use a good quality dewaxer/degreaser on all surfaces prior to paint.
 

TR6oldtimer

Darth Vader
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I use SEM Rust Shield, it provides a tough hard surface. Comes in rattle cans and traditional paint can sizes. It can be used with or without their hardener (I prefer the hardener). Apply with a brush or spray, easy cleanup and unlike the POR or rust converter both when once opened are difficult to keep from setting, SEM acts like regular paint. If you are going to top coat it, allow at least 72 hours to cure. Then just scuff with a scotch pad and top coat.

Check all products for compatibility with top coats. The SEM product is safe for Acrylic Enamels, but I found it is OK with epoxy primers.

Metal preparation is the same as POR15 or the Eastwood product. When wire brushing, an electric drill will not do. Get a high speed electric or air grinder and coarse wire brushes also use 50 or 80 grit sandpaper. No matter what the products say, the more rust you can remove the better you will be. Use phosphoric acid to convert the red rust to black. The stuff I have been using I got from ACE hardware. Just be sure to wipe the film or the paint will eventually lift.
 

Brosky

Great Pumpkin
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Use the POR15 Marine Clean to clean up the chassis. That stuff is super. After that, your call, but I'm partial to the POR15 line.
 
OP
MTribe

MTribe

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OK, OK! I'm sold on POR-15! Will take some time to do that. Picked up some POR-15 for the floors, and will do that with some glass over the top. And planning to do the block with the silver engine top coat, and the chassis as well.

Got some Marine Clean, too. Will report back on results for future searches on the topic.

Thanks!
 

PeterK

Yoda
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POR-15 silver is nice to fill small surface blemishes - it contains more solids than the black, much like the rust bullet products.
 

Norton47

Jedi Warrior
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Ray
The ACE hardware near me sells a product by SKYCO called OSPHO. That is a phosphoric acid based rust treatment product.
Is this what you have used?
When you say wipe the film, do you mean the white residue that is sometimes left behind once dried?
 

TR6oldtimer

Darth Vader
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Yes, you need to remove the residue left behind or your paint will lift.

The stuff I got at my ACE store was Krud Kutter. It is a phosphoric acid product. I apply it using a Scotch Brite pad to work it in. If allowed to dry, a film will form on the metal which will provide protection from flash rust for a few days or more. I usually wipe it off before it dries, then wipe again with a damp cloth. I always scuff the metal once again before applying paint.

Care should be taken around cracks to insure the acid is dried and film removed.

There are other products formulated especially for auto body work. Picklex20 and SEM's Rust Mort are two I have used. Picklex20 is kind of cool in that you apply it, let is set then wipe off. The film left behind can be painted over. But for the most part, I find Krud Kutter is just fine.

OSPHO is probably just as good as Krud Kutter, cheap enough to try out.

Take care with using self etching paints as some may not adhere to a phosphoric acid treat metal.

One last thing, my experience has shown that none of these products will penetrate heavily rusted pits or surfaces.
 
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MTribe

MTribe

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So here are my results...

Marine Clean is GREAT. Doesn't seem too toxic, yet cuts grease very well.

POR-15... that stuff is a bit of a pain to apply, but time will tell how it holds up. The pain is that the surface prep has to be done so well or it won't adhere, a couple coats are required within fairly precise timing of each other (3-5 hours apart, depending on moisture in air), and the POR-15 is not UV stable, so you have to top coat it if you don't want a chalky surface to appear on the black, or the silver to turn a green color.

The timing between coats doesn't sound like a big deal, but when painting the front half of the chassis, it takes so long and is so tedious that you're pretty much a slave to it for a span of about 12 hours...

But I will say already, my fuel pump leaked, and promptly ate away the engine enamel spray I got from Kragen to paint the sump. But the POR-15 top coated with POR engine enamel on the block is no worse for wear.
 

Tom74TR6

Senior Member
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Did you also use the POR metal prep? (the blue stuff). The marine clean will only degrease, the prep will etch the surface and allow it to stick. As Paul mentioned, I am partial to POR also but make sure you wear a good breather.
I top coat with Rustoleum Industrial Primer.
Tom
 
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