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Lever shock question

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T

Tinster

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I've had the Armstrong lever shocks out of my TR6 rear
many times. The shock absorber link shaft to the trailing
arm always comes along with the shock.

Now I want to seperate the two.
How do you remove the absorber link from the lever?

It rotates but does not back out.

Is it necessary to have the link pressed out with a
hydraulic press?

Or does it just need a few smart bangs with a hammer?

thanks,

d
 
The link has one of those tapered joints similar to tie rod end and ball joints. After you take the nut off, you will have to 'seperate' the joint. The easiest way to do that is to lay one side of the section that encircles the joint on a hard surface, such as the anvil part of a vise. The threaded part sticking out of the joint will be parallel to the anvil surface. Then strike the opposite (top) side with a big hammer. One or two good whacks, and the joint will seperate. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/hammer.gif

Edit: Do not try and drive out the link by whacking on the threaded end. You'll just mess it up.
 
Another way to solve this problem is to purchase the tubular shock conversion. It eliminates both of these pieces and provides maintenance free service for many years.
 
Hi David K, I would suggest the use of a "Ball Joint Separator" rather than the Pickle fork. They are virtually a small press operated with a wrench minimising the chance of damage to the joints.--Fwiw--Keoke
 
Ok, I banged on it with a hammer pretty good.
Nothing happed except I now have two flat sides
on the ball shaped portion of the shock link.

I don't want to ruin the Armstrong shock because
they are right costly.

It looks like I will have to resort to cutting the
link piece off the shock lever arm and purchasing a new
one from Moss. Will I need a special tool to install
the new one?

Question: after I cut the link piece off, how do I
then extract the threaded portion from the shock
lever arm. Again, I don't want to ruin the lever
shock.

I think I don't understand how the rubber ball, inside
the metal ball, is attached to the threaded steel tapered
rod.

thanks

d
 
Dale.
Once the arm is off, you can pound the threaded portion out with a hammer, as you're not worrying about saving it anymore.Then just bolt on the new one.
Dave
P.S. Where's your usual array of pics?
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Ok, I banged on it with a hammer pretty good.
Nothing happed except I now have two flat sides
on the ball shaped portion of the shock link.[/QUOTE]

Dale,

You tap the lever arm that encircles the shock link tapered stud to slightly deform the circle of the lever arm hole and pop out the link.

Hold the arm against a heavy solid anvil or vise, then hit the opposite side of the arm (180deg) and the link should pop out. Alternately, use heat around the outside of the lever arm hole to expand it and let the link come out.
 
just beat it out or find a press, as mentioned its just a smooth taper joint that locks itself in there over the years.
 
I soaked it with penetrating oil, cooked the SOB
with a torch, banged the living daylights out of
it with a bigger hammer and STILL it won't pop out.

I guess I'll cut it off and order a new one from Moss.
It's the Crypt Car remember? Nothing comes easy with
Crypty.

Oh yeah, and NOTHING is inexpensive either.

d
 
Shawn:

Are you suggesting the same Caesar I paid $600.
up front to install the clutch pressure plate
and throw out bearing....after I had removed
the tranny, old clutch assembly and done everything
else? The same Caesar who took my money and then did
nothing?

The same Caesar that ruined my u-joint by pressing
the caps on with a needle bearing under the cap?

The same lazy SOB Caesar that resulted in David flying
here from Canada to get Crypty back on the road?

Waddayatawkinabout??

/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/nonono.gif
 
Geez, Dale, it was only a suggestion.... /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/lol.gif
 
You guys are working to hard. The thing that is going to make that come lose is harmonic vibration. Just hold the shock in one hand and a hammer in the other and smack the arm of the shock mildly with a hammer right at the connection. The hole of the tapered fit will harmonically vibrate and the link will fall off like it is magic. Send me an airplane ticket and I will show you the magic.
Sp53
 
Dale:

And what is wrong with the link? Or are you just looking for something to do? lol.....
 
Tinster said:
Shawn:

Are you suggesting the same Caesar I paid $600.
up front to install the clutch pressure plate
and throw out bearing....after I had removed
the tranny, old clutch assembly and done everything
else? The same Caesar who took my money and then did
nothing?

The same Caesar that ruined my u-joint by pressing
the caps on with a needle bearing under the cap?

The same lazy SOB Caesar that resulted in David flying
here from Canada to get Crypty back on the road?

Waddayatawkinabout??

/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/nonono.gif
Click to expand...

Well, yes I was but I had forgot about those incidents. I was wondering if he would let you use the press, not press it for you and charge some extravagant fee. But I can see how he might be slightly below Pedro on your 'friends' list. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
Dale, open up your heart and let a little sunshine in!!

Pedro & Caesar are really good guys. you just haven't gotten to know them yet.
 
Gary,

Ok, maybe I'm kinda bored waiting for Paul's T/A
and my Moss order to arrive. Now that I'm not totally
stupid about things Triumph TR6, like I was a year ago,
I'm changing out the last of DPO Pedro's K-mart metric
bolts and nuts.

I wanted to see if there were stripped threads inside the
shock lever arm where the link connects. Thus my desire to
seperate them. I had kinda a bad experience last Friday
with some of DPO Pedro's stripped threads.

I decided one last attempt before I sawed off the link.
I loaded the threads with nuts to protect the threads.
No threads sticking out of the last nut. I put the Armstrong
shock lever arm on a concrete masonry unit with the link
ball centered over a slot in the cmu-threads and nuts
pointed upward. (I figured the soft cmu would break before
any damage to the steel arm of the shock occurred.)

I gave the nuts a mighty blow with my hammer, the cmu
collapsed, the ball broke free and no damage to the threads
at all. Both spun off with finger pressure.

Now I see there was nothing inside at all. Just a friction
grip from the shaft taper. Oh, well- another TR6 learning
experience for Dale.

Here's a photo of the two pieces apart.

shocklink.jpg
 
I like my red shocks better than your blue shocks...judging from the color above, you must have the standard, rather than the HD versions.
 
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