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TR6 Lever shock noise

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Gliderman8

Gliderman8

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I have been hearing a clunking noise coming from the rear of my car. I removed the vertical link and move the lever arm on the shock up and down. Doing so produced a distinct clunking noise (see video). After I took the video I noticed the body of the lever shock was moving and the clunking sound was the body of the shock hitting one of the bolts that anchor it to the body.
What's the best way to tighten the bolts and keep them from loosening? The parts diagrams do not show any nut or lock nut after it exits the threaded hole on the chassis.
 
Last edited:
I don't know if this will solve your problem, Elliot, but I used longer bolts and added a nyloc to the extended exposed threads
 
poolboy said:
I don't know if this will solve your problem, Elliot, but I used longer bolts and added a nyloc to the extended exposed threads
Click to expand...
I also added nyloc nuts when I did the resto. They are visible in the video but they didn’t keep the shock from loosening. Maybe lock washers with nyloc?
 
For no fault of yours, I can't view the video, so I have to ask...Is the hole in the shock gotten too big for the bolt ?
 
You added longer bolts after the restore... Maybe the shank of the bolt is too long and it's not tightening to the body mount.
 
poolboy said:
For no fault of yours, I can't view the video, so I have to ask...Is the hole in the shock gotten too big for the bolt ?
Click to expand...
I don’t think so but I will check it again this afternoon.
 
Tr6easyrider said:
You added longer bolts after the restore... Maybe the shank of the bolt is too long and it's not tightening to the body mount.
Click to expand...
I used the bolts that were on the car when I did the restoration…. I didn’t replace the bolts. There was enough thread protruding and nylocs were already on the bolts.
 
Had the same issue back-when, with the first MGB. Use new Nyloc nuts and a drop of Loctite as overkill.

Only ran across the problem with a couple LBC's in the whole time working in the shop, it doesn't seem a regular issue. 🤷
 
DrEntropy said:
Had the same issue back-when, with the first MGB. Use new Nyloc nuts and a drop of Loctite as overkill.

Only ran across the problem with a couple LBC's in the whole time working in the shop, it doesn't seem a regular issue. 🤷
Click to expand...
Going to work on it later today. I tightened up the nyloc nut to the point I was rounding off the heads. I really should be tightening the bolt as that's threaded into the chassis. Going to also try the loctite as well.
 
poolboy said:
For no fault of yours, I can't view the video, so I have to ask...Is the hole in the shock gotten too big for the bolt ?
Click to expand...
try the video again... I made a change
 
OK I did, but I can't tell what's moving aside from the lever arm. It sounds like the noise is coming from inside the shock...probably not though
 
Elliot - on my '57 Morris, when I topped off the dampers, I found one of the bolts on the passenger side rear damper had somehow "worked" loose, and the hole was out of round. Guess that can happen on a rarely maintained 60 year old car. Let us know what you find when you check.

Thanks.
Tom M.
 
poolboy said:
OK I did, but I can't tell what's moving aside from the lever arm. It sounds like the noise is coming from inside the shock...probably not though
Click to expand...
When I first started to move the arm I also thought the noise was internal to the shock. After looking at it I found that the shock was rotating on one bolt and the noise was generated by the shock housing hitting the opposite bolt.
 
Update….
I used new bolts with a lock washer/washer on the shock side and a nyloc on the frame side, then tighten the snot out of it ;)
Second pic showing shock install before I installed the nyloc.
BCD633B7-9C5A-4965-8B0C-2C5FE0782382.jpeg

8ECE1D93-83AC-4611-848C-91ABE339D0FE.jpeg


Hopefully will get it off jack stands tomorrow and road test.
 
NutmegCT said:
Inquiring Minds want to know! Did that fix the clunk problem?
Click to expand...
Won’t know until I road test…. Stand by, maybe tomorrow.
 
Update…..
After replacing the hardware and torquing the bolts the clunking noise has disappeared!
 
Fitting a flat washer under a spring/lock washer will not work, the flat washer can turn seperately from the shock, it can work loose again,
its beter to fit just the sring washer.
 
mezy said:
Fitting a flat washer under a spring/lock washer will not work, the flat washer can turn seperately from the shock, it can work loose again,
its beter to fit just the sring washer.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info. I did consider that.
Not shown in the install pic is the nyloc nuts that I have installed after the threads exit the frame. In order for the bolt to loosen the nyloc nut would also have to loosen which is a remote possibility.
 
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