Let's talk about the dreaded thrust washer wear.

[2wrench]

Much to do in my research about thrust washer wear and
things to do in order to prevent the early engine demise
in the event they fail.
Wow. A few catch words: White metal thrust shims.

Lead indium thrust shims made
by AE/Glacier

Revington's solution to thrust
washer wear (allows pining of
an extra half thrust washer to
the rear face of the rear main
bearing cap) [which takes 90
percent of the wear].

Thrust washer "check" has been suggested when looking at
a used engine to indicate its present state of affairs...
to some degree, of course.

So, how much attention should I pay to this issue? Is this
really something I should be going after for upgrade during
rebuild or do I just buy 'em; put 'em in and be done because
this is over-kill issue? Help me, Obi Wan Kanobie (or however it's spelled), you're my only hope.

 

[TR3driver]

Just my $.02 ... if you are planning to keep and drive the motor for a long time, say 50,000 miles; then IMO you should do the mod to install 2 sets of thrust washers. If you can't imagine putting 20,000 on it; then it's probably not worth the cost. Of course extreme poverty might be another excuse; but I assume that's not the case.

Although I cannot prove it, I rather suspect that it's only necessary if you install one of those horribly heavy "wrong" clutch plates. But it's cheap insurance, IMO, against the chore of replacing thrust washers later or, worse yet, having one fall out.

You can get the mod done here in CA, no need to send to Revington. I think HVDA still does it, or Greg Solow (The Engine Room). No doubt Ken at BFE knows where to have it done, too; or Ted at TSi (in Ohio).

Again, my opinion/point of view : the material of the thrust is not the problem. That type of bearing relies on a (microscopic) thin film of oil at all times. As long as the film holds up, the bearing only wears due to dirt (that pierces the film). Rapid wear results when the bearing is overloaded, which squeezes the oil out and causes metal-to-metal contact. Doubling the surface area halves the load and is the right way to fix the problem.

 

[Tinster]

Hey Randall !!

The thrust washers issue is one that worries me to no end,
given the terrible condition of my car when purchased.

I have no reason to believe PDO Pedro would have replaced
the thrust washers when he didn't even change the oil for
three years. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/nonono.gif

I think I have now passed auto mechanic 101- "how to
replace simple bolts and nuts with torque wrench use."

How do I determine if the TWs are shot?

If, as I suspect, they are shot; is this a procedure I can
accomplish with my limited skill set?

or do I need to fly in a Triumph TR6 experienced mechanic?

Thanks as always,

dale

 

[guzzul]

Dale - checking the play on thrust washers is pretty straightforward, as is replacing them. Check out Paul Tegler's reference at:

https://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/thrustwashers.htm

It is Spitfire oriented, but the process to check a TR would be the same. Your service manual should indicate how much axial 'play' is acceptable for your model.

 

[TR3driver]

How do I determine if the TWs are shot?

One way is to first step on the clutch (engine not running) to push the crank all the way forward. Then watch carefully where the timing pointer extends towards the damper as you lever the damper back. The movement should be no more than .013", which is about the thickness of a matchbook cover or fingernail. If it's more than that, you have a problem.

Here's another way :
https://www.vtr.org/maintain/thrust-washers.shtml<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]If, as I suspect, they are shot; is this a procedure I can accomplish with my limited skill set?[/QUOTE]Depends on how bad things are. If the movement is only a little out of spec, then you should be able to just drop the pan & change the thrust washers with the engine still in the car. You'll want jack stands and a torque wrench, but otherwise it's easy. Replacements come in both standard and .005" oversize, so buy a set of each.

However, if the movement is 1/8" or more, then the old TW has fallen out and you need to pull the engine, tear it down and decide if the block & crank can be salvaged or not. Without the TW, the thrust surface of the crank rubs directly against the block, damaging both of them.

 

[Tinster]

Ouch! Stupid kid on the block question.

What is the damper?
I'm guessing it located on the engine front end?

Also, what is a main bearing?

Can I use the valve adjustment feeler strips to
measure the "gap" ? I think I have a .010 strip.

thanks,

d

 

[TR3driver]

The damper is the pulley on the crankshaft, where the water pump/alternator belt goes.

Main bearings are inside the engine/oil pan; where the crankshaft rides in the block.

To use a feeler gauge to measure, you'll need to drop the pan. Then you can stick the feeler between the bearing surface and the crank surface, to measure the gap directly. But that's a lot of work just to check it, IMO. If you don't think you can check it "by eye", then I'd suggest adding a dial indicator and magnetic mount to your toolbox. You can usually find a cheap one on sale at Enco for around $20
https://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMKANO=130&PMPAGE=20
(lower right corner)

 

[70herald]

Re: Let's talk about the dreaded thrust washer wea

Although I cannot prove it, I rather suspect that it's only necessary if you install one of those horribly heavy "wrong" clutch plates.

Most likely the major cause of excessive wear, along with riding the clutch pedal, mechanical problems with the clutch which result in constant pressure on the clutch, starting the engine with the clutch depressed....

Basically, if you use the clutch properly, ie shift and then get your foot off the pedal they should last quite a long time. I kind of hope that most everyone here knows how to drive a manual transmission car properly, but even when manuals were "standard" the actual level of skills by the average driver were rather low.

 

[Tinster]

Re: Let's talk about the dreaded thrust washer wea

Ain't it the truth. I donated my year 2000 Jeep to a worthy cause: with 42,000 miles on it and a brand new
clutch.

The young lad driving my old Jeep wore out the new clutch in less than 4,000 miles by constantly riding the pedal.

d