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Tips

Leaky heater valve?

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Re: Better photos

Standing by.
 
Re: Better photos

I looked at my 948cc bugeye engine and my 1275cc that I plan to install once rebuilt. The heater valves are different. The 948cc valve is like Jacks (that's the one I fixed the leak with graphite rope). The 1275 cc (74 midget donor) is like Mark's. I'm not sure how this one is put together. Look forward to Mark's autopsy of it.

Fred
 
Re: Better photos

Always use one like Jacks if you have it. It is unbreakable and can be repaired every 50 years forever. lol.

Not only that, they shine up nice.
 
The O-ring challenge.

Took the valve off and looked inside: there is a little flange at the end of the valve stem that should hold some kind of O-ring or seal. Mine was totally gone. It's a really strange size, neither Lowe's nor Auto Zone had one to fit.

I'll take the heater valve to a plumbing supply store and see what they have. Next problem is getting the O-ring in there. The valve doesn't come apart and it will take some fine surgical skills to get an O-ring over the flange through a 1/2" tunnel.

Hey Jack, that brass valve does shine up nicely! Mine was painted black now it's nice, shiny brass.

I'll keep everyone posted, and give you the correct size of the O-ring (if it exists).
 
Re: The O-ring challenge.

Think about this for a min. Someone put that valve together at the factory. It must come apart.

Oh yea. Spray some clear sealer on that lovely brass to keep its shine.
 
Re: The O-ring challenge.

Jack, it really doesn't seem to come apart. The top is welded shut and nothing else is removeable.

I'll try to find an O-ring today. Trying to avoid the Moss catalog, but . . . :crazyeyes:
 
Re: The O-ring challenge.

Mine leaked too -- I tried some fixes and wound up going to the Moss catalog for a new one. Solved the problem.
 
Re: The O-ring challenge.

Might be a press/interference fit. I have one like that, but have never tried to take it apart. (I got it on from a spare head I bought).
 
Mark,
would you mind taking a photo of that valve from the bottom, where you mentioned the flange and a screw? As frugal as the Brits are I can't imagine them making a brass valve that was irreparable.

Charlie
 
Charlie, here are photos of the bottom and top of the valve. It IS possible to wrangle an O-ring on the bottom of the screw valve, I guess. It will take some doing but I think I can do it, <span style="text-decoration: underline">IF</span> I can find the correct O-ring for that tiny flange.

[img:center]
AVALVE001.jpg
[/img]

AVALVE002.jpg
 
May i say that I think there is one more step to takeing this apart.

Looks to me the body would/might/maybe come unscrewed from the bottom. The part with the two flats for a wrench.
 
Good thought, Jack. I was wondering that too.

Otherwise Mark, was wondering if I am seeing in the third photo is a little metal disk with a groove in it that acts as a gate. It raises and lowers when you twist the valve stem. And when the valve is all the way closed goes is far enough to the bottom (past those coarse threads) that you can snap an o-ring in that groove?

Charlie
 
Yes, that's right, Charlie.

I found an O-ring that appears to work. It's a "Danco" 3/8 X 1/4 X 1/16 (OD) #5 O-ring. Found it in a local hardware store. It seems to sit a tiny bit proud of the flange, but I think it will work.

Enlisted the wee woman, who has a very steady hand. She held the flashlight and one small screwdriver while I took another small screwdriver (watchmaker's type) and snapped the O-ring on there. It's a two person job, took about 5 minutes.

I'll test it tomorrow after the Permatex gasket maker stuff drys. I also coated the brass washer and bottom of the valve with gasket shellac sealer (Indian Head brand).

Holy cow, what a ton of work for such a small part! :cryin:

It will be interesting to see if my O-ring works. It's hard to know if it fits perfectly.

FWIW, neither Victoria Brit nor Moss carries a correct brass washer for this valve. The hardware store owner said that it's essentially made of unobtainium, he didn't have one. Glad I didn't throw it away.

We'll see tomorrow . . . thanks for all the help, gents! :thumbsup:
 
jlaird said:
May i say that I think there is one more step to takeing this apart.

Looks to me the body would/might/maybe come unscrewed from the bottom. The part with the two flats for a wrench.
Click to expand...

Jack, it's all one piece. I don't think even superman could take it apart. Of course, I could be wrong, but it's all one solid piece and it looks like the top where the valve stem goes into the body has been pressed in with a big press.

I'll know soon if it works . . . thanks for all your help!
 
And that of course could very well be.
 
Had to wait overnight for the shellac coating on the washer to dry. Had to apply the shellac coating and teflon tape because the valve wouldn't seat correctly (turned too far toward the valve cover) without either a washer (unobtainable) or something to build up the base.

Now, I have to wait 24 hours for the gasket maker to harden.

Tomorrow I'll fire th' dawg up and see of water sprays anywhere.

The suspense is killin' me. :cry:
 
From your favorate parts store you can buy gasket material in all thicknesses and types of material.

If you make a copy, on your copy machine of every gasket as you use em you will have a pattern to make new ones.

Harbor Freight even has hole punches and such to help. Xacto knives are also useful.

Great job with a cutting board in front of the TV with the wife.
 
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