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TR2/3/3A Leaking Fuel Pump

jfarris

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1956 TR3, SU H6 carbs.
I recently filled the tank and immediately got a gas smell in the garage (wife is unhappy). There appears to be some seepage from the top of the fuel pump. I tightened the screws on the main body of the pump, may have helped some, but still seeping. I also have some fuel on top of the sediment bowl which makes no sense as there is not an opening there.
I looked in Moss' catalog, they have new repo pumps for $31 and rebuild kits for $13. The rebuild kit has a diaphragm and check valves but no seal for the diaphragm shaft. Can I assume that it has all the other required gaskets?
Has anyone else had this problem?
What do you have for the "tap" to turn off the flow of gas, the original style, a newer commercial shutoff, or nothing? I currently have nothing which is a problem with a full tank.
Thanks to all - happy motoring!
 

martx-5

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Haven't had that problem with my pump that I rebuilt about 8 years ago. I used the TRF rebuild kit (RFK1400) that has the oil seal. Unfortunately, it's not cheap at $60. As far as the shut-off valve goes, Triumph eventually eliminated it. There was a thread about what to replace it with just a couple of weeks ago. I'll see if I can find it.

http://trf.zeni.net/webcatalog/specials8.27/6.php?s_wt=1280&s_ht=720

 

TR3driver

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It's more expensive, but I also prefer an original pump with the TRF rebuild kit over a cheap repro. Absolutely zero issues with it since 2008.

If you do get a repro, make sure the pivot pin is positively located. The ones that are just staked into the body have been known to work loose and break the camshaft.

Your description sounds more like the outlet fitting leaking. It's a common problem, because the original compression sleeve was a different shape than modern ones. Hopefully, this link will show one solution
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2H2NJt34OffODA0ZmI4YTItNDhiZC00YmMzLTllOTUtZWVjN2U5MTUzZjA3/view

I went a different route and machined a new nut to use a modern sleeve. Unfortunately, I didn't take a photo or record dimensions.

I still run the original shutoff valve, but with a piece of nitrile fuel line in place of the original cork seal.

Another solution is to rig up a spare electric fuel pump (which I carry in the spare tire, even though I've never needed it on a TR) as a transfer pump.
 
Last edited:
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jfarris

jfarris

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Thanks for the quick replies - the battle is half won.
I ordered a rebuild kit from TRF and it has already shipped. I was surprised at the difference in price between TRF and Moss on both kits and replacements.
I removed the fuel pump from the car, had to drain about 5 gals of gas, but there is no longer any gas seeping out, I'm back in hero status. For those who have the same issue in the future and have a very difficult time removing the fuel pump, the cam may be in the pump position. Tighten the pump back up and move the crankshaft a bit suggest by hand, and try again. I struggled to get the pump off. The sediment bowl gasket was deteriorated and was at least part of the leak.
I think I'll add a shutoff so the fuel can be turned off - I added one to my TR6.
Thanks again for the help!
 

charleyf

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Jim,
my recommendation for a fuel shut off is a 5/16" #12121 from Amazon. There are several of these on Amazon. I like the ones that are metal made for a motorcycle.
In rebuilding a fuel pump, I have always had a real problem removing and replacing the two valves. So much trouble that on the newer ones I quit changing them. These are the newer pumps with the peened valves. I have found the original valves have always worked however. But then I have also found that the really old pumps came with the valves held down by screws and a bracket.
 

TR3driver

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The sediment bowl gasket was deteriorated and was at least part of the leak.
The TRF kit has a nice soft gasket for the sediment bowl, from nitrile rubber or similar. Much better than the old cork.
 

sp53

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Yes I need to get one of those TRF kits also. Plus I guess they have that part that would help prevent fuel going back into the engine block from a major blow out. I lost a 1971 Ford to one of leaks. My wife came home and told me something was wrong with the car, and I checked the oil, and the engine was full of gasoline. I would think a 1956 would have the shut off, so the car would be plumbed in with hard metal lines. One thing I found was if I lifted the car up high enough in the front I could get the fuel pump up high enough not to gravity leak, but I am not sure at what point of the amount of gallons of fuel that is effective, maybe 5.
 

Dr_Mike

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I just had a similar problem, but the leak, onto the top of the pump, seemed to be from the outlet union to the carbs. This seems to be a compression fitting so I planned to get a new brass thingy before I did anything else.
I have a shut off from Moss and it seems to work fine, thank goodness!
 

sail

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Dr_Mike

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Thank you. many times

I think a PO had used a modern olive ( or brass thingy) since the nut is screwed right down.

I shall follow your suggestion.

Moss advertise an olive to fit, and it may be a longer than normal one as the price is also a lot longer than normal.

( BTW... I tried to locate emery paper locally last year and no-one had heard of it. I ended up with the finest "wet and dry" that i could get. Looks like a file will do just fine.)

Thanks again.
 
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jfarris

jfarris

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Thanks to all who replied - this clearly discussion demonstrated the value of this forum to owners of LBC's! Charley, I already had that shutoff ordered when you posted. Randall, your fix for the "wrong size" compression fitting will help bunches of owners who spring leaks and have no idea why. All parts are in the car, no leaks with a short run in the garage. I'll get out for a test drive this afternoon and then think of some place fun to go this weekend.
 
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