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Leaking 5-speed drain plug

drooartz

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Did a drain and refill on the Datsun 5-speed in the Morris today, and now the transmission is leaking past the drain plug a bit. Enough that I need to sort it out.

I've got it in there tight, but now thinking I need some sort of sealer on the threads. It's a male pipe thread, similar to the diff drain (no washer or shoulder on the plug). Something like Permatex thread sealant? Other thoughts?

In other 4-door Sprite news, I also installed a rebuild diff and redone driveshaft. I've now been through pretty much all of the mechanicals other than the engine, and that was rebuilt by the PO and runs great. Just need to sort this trans leak and I'm ready for the driving season.
 

Jim_Gruber

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Drew, same issue with Bugsy’s 5 speed. When I pulled engine for paint the tranny tunnel was full of oil and not engine oil. Hoping I didn’t ruin Tranny as a result of running low on gear oil. And all of that oil stayed in the tunnel and did not leak down on the garage floor. I think that may have been cause if my strange whining sounds. Tranny is out for a rebuild/ teardown to make sure all us ik befire I put it back in the car after painting is finished.
 
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drooartz

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Thanks. Going to pull the plug in the morning and let it all drain, then clean and wrap with the teflon.
 
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drooartz

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Well, I know why it's leaking now. I must have overtightened the plug when I first replaced it -- there is a crack in the case where the plug goes in. Major disappointment. No idea if that's repairable or if I'm done. :sorrow::censored:
 

Jim_Gruber

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Crap. Crap and Double crap. Give Rivergate a call they were able to supply a complete front bellhousing for me. I HTH that isn’t my issue.
 

twas_brillig

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Gosh dang! (also known as: euphemism). I assume that it's repairablel by cleaning, then welding, then (presumably) tapping. Good fortune, and the only advice I've got is that some problems go away when you throw enough money at them. Hopefully, this won't be an excessive amount. Doug
 

nomad

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I was going to advise against over tightening....too late. Before you panic completely visit you local friendly auto parts store and hopefully they might have a product that will help out. JB Weld??? Something that would wick into the crack????

Kurt
 

Bayless

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A good welder likely can repair it. I once cracked the cast aluminum sump on my 190SL and took it to a recommended welder. He whipped out his acetylene torch and welded it right back. I said "I thought it had to be TIG welded." he said " Nope. You just have to know what you are doing."
 

Joe Schlosser

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The biggest problem in getting something like a trans case welded is getting it clean inside the crack. It will probably take a lot of work with small grinders to open up the crack enough to get it welded.
Good aluminum welders are difficult to find.
After welding, you could have the hole retapped for straight threads and use a standard oil plug with crush washer
 
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drooartz

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It was not my most shining moment that's for sure. :wall:

I've got a spare 5-speed on the shelf, likely plan is to prep that one and swap it into the Morris. Once the cracked one is out I can assess. I have a friend that is a car restorer and aircraft welder -- might bring it by his place for a professional opinion. Will probably also drop Rivergate a line to see if they have a replacement case (since the internals of my trans are really good). Just getting my options together.
 

nomad

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I have a case from a junk transmission. Haven't looked to see if all the bearing bores inside are good. If you are desperate I'll check it out.

Kurt
 

Jim_Gruber

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And if he doesn’t Kurt I may need one for same issue.
 

nomad

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Wanted to mention that I think what Bayless had done was what is referred to as aluminum brazing or soldering. If you could get all the grease out [can't see how one could do that....maybe flush with a solvent] you could maybe do that with the trans still in the car.
I've done a lot of welding over the years and I would attempt it. The main worry to me would be getting the trans cleaned out with no residual explosive gasses inside.

Kurt
 
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drooartz

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I have a case from a junk transmission. Haven't looked to see if all the bearing bores inside are good. If you are desperate I'll check it out.

While not desperate, mine will need a new case. My internals are in great shape, but I'm reasonably sure the case is now junk. If your case is in good shape let's PM and talk deal.

My current plan is to pull the trans out and swap in my spare -- then try and repair or re-case the broken one, hate to waste those good internal bits and I may still need that spare one for my Bugeye.
 

Jim_Gruber

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Drew, my tranny is out and undergoing an autopsy. Supposed to have a call in status by end of week. When I pulled tranny tunnel was full of 90 weight gear oil so it was leaking from somewhere but too heavy to make it too the ground in the garage. I’ll need to make some decisions after I get results back. Thanks for the offer. I’ll let you know.
 

Joe Schlosser

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If my memory is correct the Datsun/Nissan transmissions we are talking about were noted for leaking at the rear seal. Guys running the A series engine In GT5 and then GTL always had trans seal issues at the drive shaft.
That type of leak would put in the middle of the Tunnel with no place for it to go.
 

Jim_Gruber

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Got initial autopsy results today. Looks good inside w minimal wear but he has not removed the main shaft yet. Rear seal may have been compromised as I used Paul A’s rear mount with Gerard’s Kit and it was a bitch to get it to fit and I could have torqued that rear seal. I will be reinstalling with Gerard’s recommended modifications and his rear mount kit which will raise rear of tranny about an inch which also tilts the engine a little more forward. I had issues with getting LCB Header to fit and GR Starter only had about a 1/2” of clearance in the right rear quarter of the engine compartment. Again I did not do the actual Install as I was in the middle of getting a house ready for sale last year. More to follow.
 

nomad

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Well, I know I need the rear extension because the drive shaft sleeve bearing is not available and never has been. Always a new rear case was sold by Nissan. The trans i need it for had a drive shaft bearing out when I got it and the bearing is pretty loose. That is why the one I need it for eats rear seals. Have had other things on my mind. I'll look that case over.

Kurt
 

Jim_Gruber

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Autopsy Follow Up. May have found reason for the whirling sound

So far I have actually discovered the transfer idler gear was on backwards, and was not aligned with the mainshaft and layshaft gears. Assuming this gear had run for its whole life by turning (and seating in) in one direction and was then asked to push the other way, it could certainly explain a noise. It is all I have found so far, but it certainly is an assembly mistake by the last guy. Since it not something that is done wrong with any frequency, it would be hard to say 100% that this would cause a noise.

I have looked for any signs of cracking on the drain plug area and see nothing. I will look for a shorter version, something that uses an Allen wrench to remove, which would be a very short plug.

I would need your driveshaft if I am going to check for the rear bushing condition.
 
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