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TR2/3/3A Leaf Springs

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The rear frame lug where the leaf spring mounts to the frame is a 1/2" lower than the passenger side. That would account for some of the 1 1/4" difference. Also I don't see pads at the attachment points of body to frame. I wonder if it's possible to loosen the attachment points in order to shim the body without removing everything. I wouldn't be able to correct the whole difference but might get an improvement.
 
I've decided to replace the passenger side leaf spring so that I have a matched set which is something i should have done anyway. Even though the part numbers are the same on the current springs does not mean that the manufacturers are the same since one may have been purchased eight years ago. If the problem still persists at least I know that it's not the springs.
 
If you jack the car under the center of the differential case, does it level or remain tilted?
 
It will. The idea is to see if the front springs sit level when you take the rear springs out of the equation.
 
I got a pair of the springs from Rimmer Brothers in the UK. They are both the same. One side should have 2 extra pieced of spring material.

David

Spring label.jpg

Spring number.jpg
 
CJD said:
If you jack the car under the center of the differential case, does it level or remain tilted?
Click to expand...

I did that. The difference decreased from 1 1/4" to 1/2". I assumed from this that the second leaf spring should be replaced so I've ordered one. After taking the second spring off, I placed them inverted side by side on a bench. Although they appear to be the same part number, one appears to be the thickness of one leaf higher than the other. I'm not sure if that's enough to cause the car to sag that much. We'll see once I replace it.
 
frankfast said:
Are you saying that the driver side is supposed to have a stiffer spring?
Click to expand...

No. The difference is a pair of very short leaves on the top of the passenger side spring. It is somewhat counter-intuitive but adding thickness to the spring causes that side to sit a little bit lower.

The idea is to have the car sit level when a solo driver is behind the wheel.

Here's a photo (not mine) of those extra leaves (some may call them spacers):

WjfjlD5.jpg


Not all cars got them (they were discontinued at some point) and possibly not all repros have them either. I added a pair to my TR4 passenger side spring to level the ride.
 
Geo Hahn said:
No. The difference is a pair of very short leaves on the top of the passenger side spring. It is somewhat counter-intuitive but adding thickness to the spring causes that side to sit a little bit lower.

The idea is to have the car sit level when a solo driver is behind the wheel.

Here's a photo (not mine) of those extra leaves (some may call them spacers):

WjfjlD5.jpg


Not all cars got them (they were discontinued at some point) and possibly not all repros have them either. I added a pair to my TR4 passenger side spring to level the ride.
Click to expand...

Interesting. That means that when no one was sitting in the car, the passenger side would be lower. Essentially the spacers force the spring downward bringing the chassis with it.
 
frankfast said:
...That means that when no one was sitting in the car, the passenger side would be lower...
Click to expand...

Initially yes. Perhaps the intent was to address a tech rule by some sanctioning body that required the car to sit level with a driver on board.

I think what happens over time (say, 50 years) is that the driver's side sags more than the passenger side - so the effect of the spacers is to make the car more level than it would otherwise be.
 
Although not perfect, adding the passenger side leaf spring made a marked improvement. There is now 3/8" difference between the centers of the directional lights. I don't think that the original springs were a match.The greatest improvement is at the front of the car. The centers of the Lucas headlamps are within an 1/8". In order to get the back of the car better, I'm tempted to add a shim on top of the passenger side leaf spring as shown above. We'll see how much it bothers me. In any case, thanks to everyone who've added information to this thread.
 
CJD said:
3/8” difference. I’m pretty annul but that wouldn’t bother me.
Click to expand...

3/8" difference at the directionals means even more from one side of the car to the other (although difficult to measure). I can still see the difference although much improved. Must be my carpenters trained eye.
 
Yeh I have been a journeyman carpenter since 1982 and I feel your pain. I would add the body tub takes shims to level it out also, so perhaps the bench mark with the headlights is floating, like working on a boat, ha ha. Plus there is that whole idea of some people sitting in the car and them weighing the same. Anyways, I think it is fine. The one concern I might have is that I heard the ride can be stiff with the new springs, but I have never had them, so I am comfortably dumb with my old ones that could break at any time, so again you probably did the correct solution because those springs are getting to be the only game in town.
steve
 
sp53 said:
Yeh I have been a journeyman carpenter since 1982 and I feel your pain. I would add the body tub takes shims to level it out also,
steve
Click to expand...

I agree that the body should be shimmed. When I measure to the frame it is exact right to left.

Funny how many carpenters I meet that are wrenching as a hobby. When I was messing with racing bikes, there was an abnormal amount of carpenters doing the same. After I built my house I traded in my claw hammer for a lump hammer. I'd rather be in my garage dealing with my TR and my bikes rather than fixing a door that rubs. Metal is more fun than wood.
 
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