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The rear of the left side of my car is 1 1/2" lower than the right. I noticed that the rear springs seem to be made by different manufacturers because the labels and markings are different. I'm tempted to replace both but am not convinced that is the problem. Has anyone used the competition springs from Moss? I believe that they must be stiffer. Any advantage for street use?
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TR2/3/3A Leaf Springs
- Thread starter frankfast
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Geo Hahn
Yoda
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And sometimes you can't see them at all. I found one break but when I removed the spring two more were found.
1½" droop is a lot - more that I would attribute to the usual driver's side sag. Pretty sure you'll find a broken spring.
Can't comment on the Moss springs as I put on a used spring - which worked well to eliminate the sag and kept a good ride height.
I got a pair of springs from Rimmer Bro, in UK but was not happy with the quality. The rebound clips were 1/4" + clear of the top leaf and the leaves are thicker than the drawing calls for.
I have been in contact with Mike Eaton of Eaton springs and with the TR drawing he says he can reproduce the springs as drawn including the tapered ends. But they are expensive for one set. Maybe several sets would bring the price down.
David
https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/about/
I have been in contact with Mike Eaton of Eaton springs and with the TR drawing he says he can reproduce the springs as drawn including the tapered ends. But they are expensive for one set. Maybe several sets would bring the price down.
David
https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/about/
CJD
Yoda
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I’ve grown perturbed with all of the vendors this year. Rimmer is into me for over $600 for seat pans that I had to send to the recycler they were so bad. I have an Ebay gas tank that was “in perfect condition with no leaks”. I fixed 3 leaks, and obviously missed more, as it is still seeping gas. I ordered a new tank from TRF, who promised the special order would be 3 weeks. 2 months later they tell me it is not available. I mean really?? 2 months to let me know they couldn’t get it??
If you can salvage a used part...do it. It’s like rolling the die with every parts order you make these days.
If you can salvage a used part...do it. It’s like rolling the die with every parts order you make these days.
John, remember what I mentioned about new tanks and the vent hole locations being all over the place. When I did my research Moss had 4 tanks in stock in Petersburg and all the vent holes were in different locations. I have plugged the vent line on the tank I received from Rimmer but don't like it because gas sprays a fine miss out the filler cap as the tank gets full. That's the only place air can now escape when filling the tank. I am going to repair an old tank and install it with the vent tube.
His price is $399,00 per pair plus shipping so not too much more than your guy.
Right is better than cheap. He clams he can reproduce the springs exactly to drawing. Except for the material which will be better. I would supply the front bushes to insure they fit.
Not made a final decision yet but on balance good new springs must be worth more than cheap almost right springs.
David
Right is better than cheap. He clams he can reproduce the springs exactly to drawing. Except for the material which will be better. I would supply the front bushes to insure they fit.
Not made a final decision yet but on balance good new springs must be worth more than cheap almost right springs.
David
Geo Hahn
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I know nuthin' about springs but I'll ask: Do these drawings specify the strength of the resulting springs? Or is that purely a function of the arc?
To the uneducated it would seem that 2 springs could look identical but have different spring rates and different heights under load.
I have only used the old stock ones and my stash is gone, and yes the old ones from what I heard make a better ride. Randall has commented many times on how he dislikes the repos. The problem with the old ones is that they break after time, say 50 years. Every tr3 I have worked on had a broken spring plus the break is difficult to see and really cannot be fixed. I had a very talented shipyard welded try a couple of times, but they would break after a year or so. So yeh get a good set of local copycat ones and I think you will be better off---and get your money back. These guys need to try harder or get different contractors for their stuff they sell. There is that set on evil Bay with free shipping and I think 160.00, but my gut tells my one of them is broke. Another option is to just get the top spring made and clean everything up good and go with that because the top one carries all the load. I have not asked my guy about that, but it must be cheaper.
steve
steve
Can someone explain to me how to remove the front fulcrum of the spring from the bolt (stud?). The manual says to pry the bolt out by threading a 5/16" bolt into the head of the fulcrum bolt but mine appears to be a stud welded to the frame. There is no way a 5/16" bolt will fit in the hole of the frame which has a welded boss on the tube of the frame. Is this a change in design or a home made modification? If it is a welded stud, is there enough room to slide the spring off of the stud? It looks like everything else must be removed first to allow the spring to drop before the spring can slide off of the stud.
Geo Hahn
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Perhaps you could post a picture of what you have as there should certainly be a bolt with a 5/16" threaded hold in the head.
The head of the bolt is shaped like a fat D -- that is, it has a flat on one side, so depending on where you look it might appear to be welded to the frame.
If you determine that you have the correct part then it is a matter of setting up with some all-thread and spacers (I used a long socket and a stack of washers) to fashion a puller.
The head of the bolt is shaped like a fat D -- that is, it has a flat on one side, so depending on where you look it might appear to be welded to the frame.
If you determine that you have the correct part then it is a matter of setting up with some all-thread and spacers (I used a long socket and a stack of washers) to fashion a puller.
Is the head of the bolt hidden within the square frame tube and accessed through a hole in the frame?
CJD
Yoda
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The head of the bolt is round and fits into a welded tube through the frame. You should have a body plug inside the car behind the seat...through which you can reach the threaded side of the bolt to drive it out. It is frequently well rusted in and reluctant to budge.
The threaded hole referenced in the manual is accessed through the body plug.
The threaded hole referenced in the manual is accessed through the body plug.
Geo Hahn
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That's it. As mentioned, the bolt head has a flat on one side that rests against a complementary protrusion from the tube. I think I can just see the place where the two meet as indicated here:
I am not aware of a body plug behind the seat though I have heard of some (in extreme cases) drilling a hole in the body behind the small stone guard to drive out that bolt.
I started by soaking the whole thing well for many days in PBlaster. Then uses a bottoming tap in that threaded hole to get it as clean and deep as possibly. I used regular all-thread with success though some use harder stuff (grade 8?). Maybe I was lucky but on both TRs that bolt pulled out as smoothly as a cork out of a wine bottle.
I am not aware of a body plug behind the seat though I have heard of some (in extreme cases) drilling a hole in the body behind the small stone guard to drive out that bolt.
I started by soaking the whole thing well for many days in PBlaster. Then uses a bottoming tap in that threaded hole to get it as clean and deep as possibly. I used regular all-thread with success though some use harder stuff (grade 8?). Maybe I was lucky but on both TRs that bolt pulled out as smoothly as a cork out of a wine bottle.
martx-5
Yoda
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Most people can get those pins out by doing as Geo has done. Copious amounts of PB Blaster or Kroil over a several day period should loosen them enough to extract them. However, occasionally that will not work. I know that Don Elliot here on the forum has actually lifted the body up by the back enough to slide the leaf spring off the pin. If all else fails, there is the Revington TR method as shown in the link below. However, this method involves cutting the spring, and really doesn't sound any better than trying to get it out using Geo's method. But if desperate, it may work.
https://www.revingtontr.com/product/106231/name/rear-spring-eye-pin-tr2-4
https://www.revingtontr.com/product/106231/name/rear-spring-eye-pin-tr2-4