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Leaf spring traction bars

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prb51

prb51

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Gents,
While discussing bronze bushing replacements to decrease wheel hop the traction bar alternative came up by a member.
https://www.tractionmaster.com website indicates that they control unusual 'roll up' on acceleration (not a big issue with a TR3) and braking but also keep the springs/axle unit properly centered while the springs work.
The centering issue would seem to me to help control wheel hop and 'rear wheel steering' issues.
Anyone use these kind of bars and your experience.
The maker said he'd make the TR3 bolt on units for the normal price about $129.00
 
I've got a set made by Dave Headley on my '68 GT - along with his centering kit...you might want to touch base with him to see if he has anything for your car....but, think he's just into MGB's.
 
Tony,
Do you race the GT or road it and do the traction bars make a noticable diff?
I road mine only but do so aggressively when I can and am trying to eliminate the TR3 rear wheel hop (as much as poss with the frame axle issue).
He makes the blot on's for the 3 and I'm guessing $129 to be pretty reasonable. He used to make many of them 30/40 years ago when TR3's were common race entries.
 
If I ever get it finished, its solely for racing...Dave Headley & the other MGB racers swear by them....& $129 is a great deal compared to what they want for race quality!
 
"""""I road mine only but do so aggressively when I can and am trying to eliminate the TR3 rear wheel hop (as much as poss with the frame axle issue).""""""""

For street use I'd fogettabout metal hard bushings as they will transmit a lot of noise/vibration and a harsh ride.

Wheel hop is caused by spring movement and oscillation (wind up). Usually on the longer rear portion of a semi elliptic leaf spring.

Parallel locating bars from the rear end housing (or spring pad) to the chassis and with the housing moving up and down in travel, will describe an arc. Small but still an arc...while the front of the leaf spring pack is also describing an arc. And if the two arcs arent exactly the same arc the whole thing will bind. There are other issues in roll of binding also...but because of the close togetherness of the bar to the spring it is not much of an issue, but still not optimium. Addon bars have to take this geometry into account when fabbing them up.

What I would do is keep it real simple and use Delrin or Polyurethane bar stock and make up some front and rear spring eye bushings and shackle bushings (doubt that these will be off the shelf items for a TR) and also add two U-bolt type spring clamps to the rear halves of each spring to tighten up the spring leaves and eliminate any leaf separation when the spring starts to wind up. All this assumes the spring condition/brackets etc condition permitting.

Shock absorbers play a big part in this also. But thats another story for another time.
 
Jerry,
I've already discounted any solid metal bushings as I like my fillings in my teeth.
The poly bushings make sense but I don't see them really centering the axle without some help.
Do you think a bar in line that moves vertically with the springs would cause binding? I'm not racing so don't need the optimim but this would decrease lateral movement.
Thanks for your input
 
The centering issue would seem to me to help control wheel hop and 'rear wheel steering' issues."""""""

Two completely different issues.... actually three.

Centering...add a Panhard or Watts bar.

wheel hop.....discussed above

rear wheel steering.....find out whats causing it. Usually something bent or loose in the rear.
 
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