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TR2/3/3A Leaf spring advice

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Frank Canale

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I decided to take a look at the rear leaf springs as I am starting to paint chassis parts. The springs look a little worse than I had remembered. I did a quick test to see if they were close to spec. I weigh about 140# so I set up a block under the spring with a 1 “ space and stood on the spring and both springs just barely touch the block. The spring will push me off the block so I think they are still ok spring wise. I would like to know thoughts on taking them apart to clean them and paint. Is anybody lubricating their springs. Plenty of info online but curious what TR3 owners are doing, real world experience. Frank
 

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I decided to cleanup what was accessible and then give them a good oil soak. Recommendations are for oiling them rather than paint is why I went that way.
Charley
 
I’m with Charlie on this one re the no painting.
if the central bolt will undo. By all means separate the leaves to clean/de- rust, but ensure they go back together in the same assemble stack and the same way around in that stack.
They do rub together as they flex so don’t paint.
The vintage guys sometimes wrap the leaf springs in a greased cloth used in old pipe work to protect them called Denso tape
www.denso.net

Denso Tape™ - Anti-Corrosion Petrolatum Tape

Denso Tape is a surface tolerant anti-corrosion petrolatum tape for steel pipes, fittings and structural steel.
www.denso.net www.denso.net
I know my dads Alvis had wrapped springs.
But confess I’ve not seen it used on classics.
 
Friend of mine owns a British car shop. He just finished an Alvis a couple of months ago. Really cool car. Center bolts frozen so it will soak over the weekend. Sure would be easier to clean up if I can get them apart. Frank
 
Can you get the front mounting pin out of the frame? Now is the time to check if it will come out because if you had to change the springs later and that pin will not move you have to lift the body to get the spring off the pin.

I got new springs made by Eaton springs t the spec in the Triumph hand book. My springs looked OK but I thought as they were nearly 60 years old new ones might be worth the cost.

David
 
Thank you David for your input. When I did all the work to the frame, I spent about a week soaking the leaf spring pins, making a special heavy duty puller that threads into the back of the pin, and a little heat they finally came free with no damage to the pins or the frame. I got several comments that while I had the body off it was the time to get those pins freed up. I have a lot of time to think about weather I will get new springs or stay with what I have. Once I get them apart I will be in a better position to see what the spring condition really is. Frank
 
I must admit I did paint my rear springs after they were dismantled and cleaned, I do spray them with CRC if they get a bit grunty. Yours will probably be ok, just make sure they go back together the same as they are, the one with the two extra small leaves was designed to lift the driver side when you don't have a passenger and I can't remember which side it goes on.

Graham
P1010115.JPG
 
Great looking chassis Graham. Looking forward to some day getting to get to start reassembly with fresh painted,clean parts. Seems my car just keeps on giving. I don't know much about leaf springs but with this entire project I have another opportunity to learn a little more about the car. I will do some more research, clean up what I have and then decide if the originals are ok or if I need to start saving for new ones. Frank
 
Thank you David, That may be helpful to someone down the road that did not tag their parts as they took it apart. I should have done a little better but most everything got tagged and bagged with labels. I bought a big bundle of tags that have the wire so very easy to label and attach to the parts as it is taken apart. Driver and passenger side leaf springs are labeled. I noticed the extra plates that were on the passenger leaf spring. I will be marking the springs before I take them apart so they go back together correctly. Very nice to see your car on the Eaton Detroit springs web site. WOW what a nice car, great job. So inspiring that you brought one back, and I hope to bring one back also. Frank
 
Factory springs appear to be the best ride, but I do not know for sure because I was able to use factory springs. The large leaf can be cracked and the crack difficult to see because it is such a hair line. It sounds like you are taking yours apart, and if it is cracked you would know. One of the original books talks about painting the leaf spring with the old motor oil from a resent change.

steve
 
The workshop manual gives details and dimensions of the springs and applying oil or graphite grease during assembly.

Graham
 
Mike Eaton asked if he could add my car to the web site. They were great to deal with while they were making my springs.

David
 
I put UHMW tape between the leaves. Not sure if necessary - but figured less friction = better. (Bought the tape from McMaster.)

I painted my leaves with black Rustoleum.

Likely oil and bare steel will do just fine...
 
I have the first leaf spring cleaned up and so far so good. Mike , how much if the spring did you cover with the UHMW tape? What thickness did you use? How well has it held up? I am still looking into the graphite paint but not sure how long it will last. Frank
 
Frank Canale said:
I have the first leaf spring cleaned up and so far so good. Mike , how much if the spring did you cover with the UHMW tape? What thickness did you use? How well has it held up? I am still looking into the graphite paint but not sure how long it will last. Frank
Click to expand...
5 mil thick, 1.5" wide from McMaster.

I covered only the parts that are covered by the neighboring spring. I figured tape not contained by two adjacent springs would lose adhesion, and make a mess (look bad, flap in the breeze, etc.).

I can't speak to how well it it holding up - as the car is still in pieces.
 
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