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kings crankshaft?

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Never heard of them. Are they stateside? Amy idea of the location so we can check them out for you?
 
hi hondo402000,am e-mailing about getting prices and spec info for a billet crank,have been quoted ÂŁ2800 plus vat from tr enterprises,here in uk,kings crankshaft $2950,but abit of a wait,just had quote from prirace,$3000,waiting to hear spec.kings use 4340 aq timken.thanks for reply,any help or advice greatly appriciated.
 
cjm,
is that the old style steel crank, the new racetorations style with the dummy jornals, or a different actual ,machined from, billet crank?
rob
 
Hi,

I'm not familiar with King crankshafts. The name I hear most often associated with crankshafts in the U.S. is Moldex.

If I understand correctly, the 6-cyl. basically benefits from going to a more rigid crank. The stock TR6 crank is too floppy and that's why they shake off the flywheel/clutch when revved. (GT6 crank, interestingly, is said to be made of much sterner stuff.)

For the 4-cyl. motor especially, the "low inertia" style at www.racetoration.co.uk looks very interesting! That's the one Rob is asking about. It should make the motor spin up very quickly, and if well made might really help that engine's harmonics. I've heard some good things about it on this engine (but always would be interested to hear more)!

I haven't read or seen anything about the same design in the 6-cyl. version. Anyone?

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[ QUOTE ]
If I understand correctly, the 6-cyl. basically benefits from going to a more rigid crank. The stock TR6 crank is too floppy and that's why they shake off the flywheel/clutch when revved. (GT6 crank, interestingly, is said to be made of much sterner stuff.)

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I seriously doubt they were made from different material. I think the real difference between the 2.0 vs. 2.5 crank comes in the larger throws/offsets required of the 2.5 displacement. Remember that the 2.5 is a stroked 2.0. That and only 4 main bearings on a crank that long. The shorter throws of the 2.0 crank would mean less inertia and less flex and would therefore lead to higher revs with longer life. Which could lead to the opinion that the cranks were better made when they weren't. There are just differences in intent in the designs that require different solutions to work past.

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PRI****** danger danger, If you deal with this person get everything in writting, warranty, return policy, and when he plans on delivering I have had issues with this guy and his so called life time support, bull mudpies
 
My nickel on this is if you are a SERIOUS racer you might get some benefit from a billet.I can tell you that I have seen billets break from design/quality problems. So for my money I like the OE crank lightened and deep nitrited. I tested my tr4 to 7000 on the dyno,we backed off when the generator blew.....of course you must lighten up the recipricating mass considerably to avoid over loading the crank.....and make big HP.
MD(mad dog)
 
hi mdcanaday, see your point,nitrided gives about 50 percent extra hardness,for about ÂŁ200,good value,although i have been informed that plasma nitriding is better.supposedly the top companies who design cranks use computer programs to aid design,and the choice of company becomes critical?
 
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