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key barrel wont go back

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Woodie

Woodie

Jedi Warrior
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Ok, last week I mentioned the key barrel came out of the column ignition switch. The barrel will now go back in but not allow me to engage the starter or turn on power. I can get it in but it will not even unlock the steering wheel. Tomorrow I am taking off the cowl to see if I can figure it out. ZIMMY, you said you had a button in the cigarette lighte hole, How did you wire that up? What did you do for power (running Position) I assume you pushed the button to engage the starter.

Anybody have any idea how the barrel goes back in ???

I'm Stumped in the rain
 
ya, my key works but my ignition doesnt turn over so i ran a wire to the relay with a switch.......z
 
Woodie, that cowl can be a bear, you might have to take the wheel of first as the cowl sinks into the dash somewhat.
 
the cowl on the 70 midget seems to have two screw on the side of the cowl, and not go under the dash... not sure the car is sitting 20 miles from home........
 
There are four screws. I think the steering column needs to be taken loose so that you can get access to the back two screws. Not too much trouble.

BTW, we had a turn of colder weather and I was out playing around in my car today. My average 0-60 time was on average about a second lower than on the hot summer days. I had a few runs that showed 7.3! ... just had to share.
 
Wow Trever that's awsum for a midget. Or was it a midget?
 
Yup, it is a midget. I have tried to do any more tuning on it since June, I think this confirms that I need to work on a heat shield and some air ducting. If I average all my runs( throwing out the outlying data) it runs 8.6 sec 0-60. I hope to get it to the track for some test and tune runs.

Sorry to hijack your thread Woodie. Let us know if you need help getting the column to slide out enough to get at those back screws.
 
well the mechanics of getting the column lowered and 4 screws out does not bother me, it is fixing or replacing the switch. Can an aftermarket switch replace the one on a midget? Cause the column lock mechanism is prbably not the same. or how about the way zimmy did it, can i put a switch and ignition push button in. I am no electrical type guy, so what wires would connect to the switch for power and what wires would switch to the push button. OH wait, maybe just a plain ignition switch in the cigarette lighter (don't have one, just the hole), but still do ones available at partsource or autozone have the correct electrical connections???


OH yeah and Trevor ,what kind of rocket did you strap to the undercarriage of you midget !!! AWSOME
 
still have to relaease the steering lock.
 
Trevor has a supercharger, i got my black button at oreillys...i believe i connected the battery to the relay, but ill check if u wanna try that route.......z
 
Ok I was at parts store, I can get a replacement ignition switch (3 or 4 wire connections) for about $30. As far as the steering lock, can I cut off the old switch and lock? Then run the wires to the new switch. The new switch fits in a 3/4 inche hole, sounds like a cigarette lighter hole EH ? Anybody know if it is three wire or four in a 70 midget, Then I could go to parts store on way to my car rather tahn car first, it would save me an hour....oh yeah the car is out side I gotta do this in the rain. BLAH
 
You should be able to turn the switch with a screwdriver if the key barrel is out. You may have to turn the steering wheel to take the pressure off of the lock. Why don't you ask if anyone has a used lock on the forum, before you engage in a DPO repair?

The ignition switch is mounted with two break away screws in a saddle clamp situation in my sons 79 1500. We had to use a chisel to loosen the screws. You chisel into the fastener forming a groove and than angle the chisel so you can rotate the fastener counter clockwise, loosening it.

Phil
 
I can stick my finger in and depress the steering column lock, but with nothing to hold it down as soon as the wheel turns the lock reengages. If I can push a small piecr of steel bar in then it could be held unlocked, then I could disconnect the wires and install a new switch elsewhere. Then at least I can use the car until a replacement comes from moss. Unfortunately I need the car as my daily driver....this would at least no damage the originality of the car by doing something that cannot be undone. Th new switch would be only a temp solution and fit in a pre existing hole, and now damage to the cowl. Then a new ignition and steering column switch can be installed just like original... so , my only question is is themidget 3 or 4 wires at the switch...??
 
Woodie,

I didn't know this was a daily driver.

If you remove the switch, that will unlock the column, and you have to remove the switch anyway to install the new one. I would not want to be driving with a pice of steel bar holding the column unlocked. If it came loose you would loose a steering. What engine/vin number is in your car? I have the wiring diagrams out now. Phil
 
Woodie, it could be either 3 or 4 wires, depending on the Vehicle No. Up to GAN-5-89514 used a 3 wire switch. 89515 and later used 4. This is from the wiring diagrams in my Bentley book.
Jeff
 
Looks like a 3 wire switch, Woodie. I agree with Phil. Remove the switch entirely now, rather than rely on a jury rigged solution to disable the column lock.
BTW, you don't have to remove the steering wheel for any reason to work on the column.
And, once you have the switch and lock mechanism on the bench, you may be able to repair it.
Jeff
 
I found schematics and see both pre 89514 and after use 4 wires... see this page https://www.spridget-tech.com/Section-Nc.pdf

so if I buy a new switch I will get a 4 wire one... 1 wire to solenoid (white red) , white to power or battery, brown to ?? and whitegreen to accessory post
 
Woodie,

It is a four wire switch with an additional ground and a purple pink wire shown for the audible warning buzzer.

With a four wire switch you will lose the warning buzzer.

There is a single white/green wire shown attached to connection 1 that supplies power to the starter solenoid to cause the engine to crank. There are three white wires shown attached to connection 2 that supply switched power to the charge indicator, tachometer, fuel pump, voltage stabilizr, stop lamp switch, reverse lamps, and hazard warning switch. There is a single brown wire shown that supplies power to the ignition switch fron the voltage regulator. There is a white/green wire that supplies power to the heater, cigar lighter, radio, windshield washer pump, and windshield wiper. Phil Hope this helps.
 
is connection 1 wr not wg. According to the back of the installation instruction one post is for the battery so is that the same as the brown wire or the white wires
 
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