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Keeping the heat out?

wangdango

Jedi Hopeful
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At some point soon I plan on trying to lessen the cockpit heat in my BJ8, anyone want to chime in on what was successful?
 

BJ8Healeys

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I agree with HealeyRick about sealing all the air leaks in the firewall. I covered the footwell floors and kickpanel areas with 1/4" mylar-faced bubble wrap insulation, although some prefer to go with the more expensive alternatives. For the fiberglass gearbox cover, I insulated both the lower and the upper sides with the insulation (I found that the upper layer improved the fit of the new carpet piece, too) and replaced the rubber seals between the cover flanges and the floor flanges.
At one time, my BJ8 melted the heel of my shoe through the carpet while droning down I-95 for hours in the summer. Now, the car is no hotter in the cockpit than any other car without A/C. By the way, the bubble wrap insulation was installed in 1999 and is only now beginning to show some wear on the tunnel where I have to pull those rubber plugs out to check gearbox oil and grease the u-joints.
 

RAC68

Darth Vader
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As I see it, the key factor to cooling the BJ8's interior is moving air through the foot wells. Differing from previous models, the BJ8 is limited by its console and even with the convertible top down, air passes over the windshield and wraps to form a high pressure bubble in the foot wells that further restricts air flow into and in that area. Add to this condition, the limited passage of air from the Cold air duct directs it air over the top of the bubble toward the back of the instrument panel and not into the foot and peddle area, explaining why my "Healey Sandals" were my standard Summer driving ware. Although the installation of a bilge blower in the cold air duct and air diverter in the driver's compartment will greatly help move air into the foot wells when moving forward at a slow rate of speed, the diverter placed in front of the cold air duct would be beneficial even without the blower and would be a simple addition.

Although I have, and do advise considering the installation of a bilge blower in the cold air duct, I strongly suggest that an added duct be installed from the cold air input in the radiator bulkhead to the grill in order to eliminate drawing in heated escaping radiator air from being drawn into the duct when the car is stopped or moving forward a very slow speeds (traffic jam). This added duct is not needed when not installing a blower as there is no cold air duct flow without moderate forward movement.

Keep in mind that when its over 90 F, the best you can expect is 90 F air out of the "Cold" air duct. However, moving air will be advantageous and appreciated. I often though that, had the Healey been equipped with cold air fender vents as in the Jaguar or even an air vent in the cowl in front of the windshield, this would be much less of an issue...but it is what it is.

Keep your cool,
Ray(64BJ8P1)
 

CessnaTPA

Jedi Hopeful
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My car was unbearable to drive because of the heat in the cockpit. As already mentioned check the firewall for leaks and the transmission tunnel heat shield. In my case the heater valve was on creating heat.
I installed heat shield on the firewall, footwells and floor boards. Then used 1/2" dynomate insulation which made a huge difference. Now the car is enjoyable to drive.
 

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55modified

Senior Member
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327 SBC in mine. I have insulated cabin, louvered hood, fresh air hose from grill and Swain coated headers, still gets pretty darn hot in summer.
 

andrea

Jedi Knight
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I have find one missing piece, in the insulation KIT, that follow the AH original
https://goo.gl/photos/n613FjZRy2Hu3RKZ7
a very important piece in the hotter position of the exhaust under the car pedals
where we have the max temperature - see thermal photos
https://goo.gl/photos/bzLvFacZVZ35UC5h9
I have also wrapped by insulation rib the two exhaust pipes in this position and have doubled the insulation over the muffler
to avoid the roast bottom
 

55modified

Senior Member
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Thermal imaging is "cool." Would like to take photos of mine.
 

RDKeysor

Jedi Trainee
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Many of you have heard the story about the thermal shortcomings of Hardy (sic) acker, a cement-based product sold as an alternative backer for bathroom ceramic tile, etc. A similar product is used as house siding. It looks much like the proper Healey insulating panels. I had rather thoroughly insulated the underside of my '60 BN7 with the 1/4"-thick Hardy product. Finally convinced by several forum posters who said the maker of that product disavowed, I followed up on another poster's recommendation to use Duraboard 500ES, a product sold (but not made) by Thermal Products Company, Inc., Norcross, GA. (See their Web page.) Since sheets of 1/4"-thick Duraboard are expensive to ship, I paused on an Atlanta trip and visited that firm, purchasing two 25x13x38.6" sheets for $55.95. I have since re-insulated the underside of my car with Duraboard, completely covering the area above the muffler, etc. In a couple places, I laminated the Duraboard between the flooring and Hardy pieces since I didn't think it would do any harm. In addition to the obvious locations--my car was purchased with zero underside insulation--I covered a number of areas around the firewall. Not satisfied, I even covered the insulated backer plate between the carbs and manifolds, etc. This product cuts easily with a shop knife, and, unlike the Hardy product, could be damaged by impact, etc. Might add that the interior of this car was already insulated with a Dynimat (sic) type product plus felt insulation. I have now driven the car in hot Florida weather and can say that interior heat is greatly diminished, something I couldn't say before I installed the Duraboard. I have no connection with Thermal Products, which offers a rather extensive line of insulating products.
 

christophe

Jedi Trainee
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I've mentioned this in another thread, but DEI heat shield is amazing. You can use it on the footboxes and where the exhaust runs under the car. The more heat you can keep from entering the metal floor boards and footboxes the better. Kirkham Motorsports uses some sort of gold foil, but it is out the roof expensive. On my 289FIA Kirkham Cobra, I used DEI Floor and Tunnel Shield and also wrapped my mufflers with DEI muffler wrap. Then I used fat mat on the interior. I plan to do the same on my 100, but hopefully i can get away without using the muffler wrap.
DEI Floor and tunnel.jpgDEI Floor and tunnel 2.jpgDEI Muffler Wrap.jpg
 
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