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Moving the striker out only causes it to 'wedge' into the tapered hole in the door. The latch pin is not inboard far enough in the door. Is there a way to get the mechanism inboard more?
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Ok, I understand. Yes, there "may" be a way. It appears that something is non-standard in the striker dimensions, the latch dimensions, or the door dimensions.
Not only is the the hole in the door tapered but the latch assembly opening itself is tapered, actually a dovetail shape to match the striker dovetail, which limits engagement depth of the striker/pin & the latch assembly. This means that moving latch assembly inboard will not help as the striker wedge will still bottom out in the latch dovetailed opening.
The latch mechanism itself is mounted to a U shaped bracket. This bracket is mounted to the inner door panel with two screws on top & two on the bottom. Top two are hard to get at the nuts above the U bracket, especially the rear one.
The only ways I can see to get more engagement depth is to either narrow the striker taper, which screws up the chrome, or enlarge the latch dovetail width, probably best.
Another possibility would be to simply egg shape the striker pin hole until it will engage the pin. Not a good idea.
If you are sure that the door will line up with the surrounding metal if the latch is fully engaged, this is the only way I can see to solve the problem. Sometimes, the pin hole in the latch is worn enough to give lost motion of the pin. Worth checking. Maybe if you get the latch & the striker out where you can see exactly what is happening, you can get a better idea of what is needed.
D