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keeping choke from sliding back in

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anthony7777

Yoda
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wonderfulebay item#4560816946,take a look at the pic.of interior dash shot,hes using a clothes pin to keep the choke out,wing nut probably doesnt know to turn knob to lock it,having said that,i hope its not one of you guys.keoke your not involved are you?id been using a piece of rubber tubing [black]slit down the length of one side,some people 'got no glass'might give one an idea how the engine is running! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/pukeface.gif
 
i'm no marketing guy (oh wait, yes i am) but you'd think he'd take the thing off for the shot, no?
 
joeg,your right,but he probably didnt want to scew up the setting,very delicate you know,i still think keoke has something to do with this,love that guy!
 
If you notice the tach, it's reading close to 2000 RPM. At least you know it runs.
Or the tach is broken /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
Wonder why there aren't any shots of the underside /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
gregw,he doesnt want us to see all the aluminum foil he stretched underneath to catch the leaks,and the bear cans he used in place of rotted exhaust pipe,some folks can truly be creative.im certain the flames on the side of your car realy arent there right?please tell me so!i liked your electrical drawing a while back,nice!thanks
 
Hi Anthony,
You can sleep sound tonight. Neither the flames nor the spoiler are on my car. And thank you.
 
thank you for the timley responce,im a light sleeper as it is!you posted some things about welding, very well done, seemed too knowledgable for the once in a while knock about welder,it was very helpfull to me, is that what you do? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
joeg,your right,but he probably didnt want to scew up the setting,very delicate you know,i still think keoke has something to do with this,love that guy!


/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nonono.gif Nope ,Keoke did not have anything to do with that choke thingy.Keoke would have used a toothpick wedged in beside the shaft so"s it would be hard to see.--Fwiw---Keoke

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nonono.gif Anthony ,you would be required to use the clothespin on the overflow hose too, the toothpick would not work /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif???
 
as usual,keoke most creative,inovative,and imaginative,wish ida thought of that one,then i would not have cut 5/8" off my radiator overflow hose.oh well!
 
I don't know about 3000s, but Frogeyes and other 50s cars you couldn't rotate the choke to lock it, it relied on friction to stay open, and a clothes peg was (and still is)the accepted way of doing it. I have heard (but never seen proof) that you could buy a stepped clothes peg specially sold for the purpose.
 
I happen to know of one of our esteemed 'gearheads' that uses the clothespin method! For some reason the counter-turn lock doesn't always work well anymore, especially when using springs on the choke lever arms to return the jet when the choke is released. Actually, the clothespin is a pretty good idea............HMmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm....
 
Hi Anthony,
Thanks! Glad I could help. No, I don’t weld for a living, but I enjoy it. A friend of mine wasn’t using his MIG anymore, so he gave it to me. All I had to buy was the tank and protection. Then my dad gave me his old torch. If someone has a TIG lying around, I’ll gladly except the donation! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif Basically, I learned by reading, welding and rereading when something went wrong. Or I would bring a sample of a bad weld to someone for guidance. That happened when I gas welded my stainless exhaust. Thankfully it turned out OK.
 
For several years I used a thin pair of vice grips to hold the choke out but after doing this for some time now the choke knob or stem has gotten roughed up enough from the vice grips that it works fine by itself now.
 
Clothespin! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif
HI Stever, there are a couple of reasons the turn-lock does not hold any more. 1} the spring clamp for the detent ball has gotten weak due to old age.2} the shaft has become worn for the same reason. Restoring its youth can be accomplished by setting the shaft on its detent track and gently hammering the back side which enlargens the shaft, closing the space the detent ball has to operate in.This inturn increases the friction along the shaft when the choke knob is rotated and it will hold.--Fwiw---Keoke
 
keoke,i just found them in a realy old moss catalog,they once sold them in different colors to match the interior,prices started at a mere $234.87,but they did come in a hansome hand sawn leather case! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazyeyes.gif
 
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So the choke IS suppose to be turned on a BJ8? Mine works fine on just friction. I guess "if it works don't fix it".

[/ QUOTE ]
Muss be aftermarket.---Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
My car came with an aftermarket choke knob/cable that did not have the turn-to-lock function and I used a metal clip to hold it out (it looks a bit more appropriate than a cloths pin). Looks like the following:
https://www.coloradok5.com/doorhingepins/2.jpg

I recently bought a used original BJ7 choke cable and the turn-to-lock feature seems to be in good shape. Is there a way to pull these apart for servicing or is it best to leave them alone? I've heard the parts inside are very very small...quite possibly the smallest parts on a Healey.

Cheers,
John
 
Some of the aftermarket/replacement cables do not have the turn to lock feature. I straightened & lubed my original cable & adapted a replacement knob to it. (Original knob was missing.)
D
 
Hi John, Actually there are no little parts to worry about. If you pull the shaft and cable out of the sheath for cleaning and a little copa slip on the cable.Replacement is simplified if you straighten the cable end and apply a bit of solder to eliminate loose wire ends hanging up in the sheath,then it should not give you any problems.---Fwiw---Keoke

PS be sure and check that the cable is long enough.
 
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