• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

K&N oil filter

AUSMHLY

Yoda
Country flag
Offline
I'm currently using a K&N HP-2009 spin on oil filter. It was recommended here on the BCF. It maybe because it has an anti-drainback valve.

The HP-2009 filter has a long canister and just fits in the allotted space. I'm happy with it, but I'm curious, does K&N make a filter that's just a good; that has a shorter canister?

Cheers,
Roger
 
WIX 51762 is 1/2 inch shorter. Don't know if K&N includes the removal nut on their length measurment. If they don't the WIX will give you a full inch of clearance.
 
Superwrench said:
WIX 51762 is 1/2 inch shorter. Don't know if K&N includes the removal nut on their length measurment. If they don't the WIX will give you a full inch of clearance.

I use Wix 51516, which is supposed to be equivalent to Fram PH3600, which was recommended for my filter adapter. Are there different adapters, or is the 51762 recommended, or did you just find a suitable filter, by measurement, etc.?

BTW, the Wix has an anti-drainback valve and is about half the price of the K&N. Nothing against K&N--I use their air filters in all my cars--but I don't see much advantage to their oil filters (unless there is significantly less pressure drop, which might imply less filtering--dunno).
 
Bob and Rodger, WIX 51762 is the same as the 51516 but shorter for a different application. Both fit the adapter. WIX and K&N are both high quality filters
 
Yes, Roger, there is a shorter one but I would guess that you have less filtering surface. I use to use one and I believe it is 2008 but it was 8 or 9 years ago. If you change filter regularly, it should be okay.
 
Hi Roger. According to K & N they do not make another filter with the Austin Healey 3000 application.
 
tahoe healey said:
Yes, Roger, there is a shorter one but I would guess that you have less filtering surface. I use to use one and I believe it is 2008 but it was 8 or 9 years ago. If you change filter regularly, it should be okay.

Interesting that you brought up, less filtering surface. Now that I think about it, the original stock filter is pretty long. The K&N is longer than most of the other filters, like the two WIX referenced.

I'm not sure the longer K&N is doing any better of a job then the shorter brands that also have the anti-drainback valve.

Maybe I should ask that question.
What do you guys think?

Is using a larger filter (like the K&N) a benifit, even if they both get changed at let's say every 3000 miles.

Cheers,
Roger
 
AUSMHLY said:
...

Is using a larger filter (like the K&N) a benifit, even if they both get changed at let's say every 3000 miles.

Cheers,
Roger


Oh boy, a religious topic! IMO, any quality modern filter is probably more than adequate. Even the much-maligned Fram probably filters OK, it's just that the construction is so chintzy. I read the now-famous filter evaluation someone did years ago--he cut a bunch open and compared the construction quality--and decided either Wix or Purolator were a good cross of decent construction, price and availability. I buy Wix because the local parts house carries them and the price is right (about $7 ea.).

In general, more filter surface is probably a good thing for flow so, sure, putting the largest filter in that will fit can't hurt. It might even get you a psi or two. The only drawback I can think of is it'll take longer to fill on a dry start (don't think you can pre-fill a horizontally-mounted filter very well; half-way maybe).

FWIW, I occasionally cut a filter open and clean and inspect the media. All I ever see is a tiny bit of carbon--like coffee grounds--and an insignificant amount of magnetic material (and that's on up to 5K miles of use).
 
Well filter area certainly is of significant concern. However, if the engine is of reasonably good condition then any high quality filter,short or long, should be acceptable.
 
mobil 1 and also super tech from walmart are shorter than the fram and the k&n filter.

the mobil 1, like the k&n is pricey where the walmart special haha is pretty cheap. i cut apart the walmart filter and it was ok, filter was average but at least it had metal caps, unlike the fram, where the caps were paper and only glued together. if you change the oil regularly, the super tech is good


a lot of replacement filters have a "bypass valve" along with a " anti drain valve" which is not a good idea and should be avoided.

both the super tech have a good anti drain valve with no bypass valve

both work the moss adapter. super tech st3682 sold at walmart, mobil1 m1-208 sold at o'rileys auto parts
 
a lot of replacement filters have a "bypass valve" along with a " anti drain valve" which is not a good idea and should be avoided.

WHY!!!




A bypass oil filter has a valve in it. When the filter media plugs up, the valve open and the oil bypasses the oil filter. It prevents extreme pressure buildup in the oil filter that could blow out...
 
Yeah, why? Bypass valve is very useful.....if the filter gets clogged for some reason, it won't starve the engine for oil.
Anti-drain-valve....there is a thread on one of these or another forum, where a guy parked his car for a week and no oil pressure. Worked fine when he pulled it into the garage.
Also, helps prevent dry-starts, by keeping a prime on the system.
BOTH should be ASKED FOR!
 
mudd said:
with no bypass valve

The bypass valve is always there, just not so obvious in some designs. When clogged the cartridge moves towards the mounting end against some sort of spring and lifts itself away from the back end so the oil can bypass. This is why you shouldn't use a dented filter, it can cause the bypass to be open permanently.

A filter with a (good quality) drainback valve will add years to your engine's life, perhaps even make it outlast the owner with the sort of gentle weekend driving most old cars see now. Just last week the drainback valve on my 'modern' failed and it had a noisy timing chain on startup. I put a WIX on with silicone drainback valve and problem gone.

Andy.
 
i thought the same, why would a bypass valve be a bad thing. As it was explained to me by a engine mechanic who works on many different types of engines. Engines run on different oil pressures. most bypass valves in newer filters are designed for newer engines, not older engines, unless you know what your engines oil pressure is and what the oil filters bypass valve pressure rating is, it can present a problem.

i myself, will skip a filter with a bypass valve, unless the filter was specifically designed for that engine and pressure ratings.

cant go wrong with a anti drain valve though, best thing they ever put in a filter.
 
A bypass valve only works on differential pressure across the filter media and this is in no way related to the engine oil pressure. It is however related to oil viscosity and flow rate so revving a very cold engine hard with high viscosity oil could open the bypass. It will also either rupture the housing or crush the filter media if the bypass valve is not functioning- it is there to prevent damage from this sort of ignorance/abuse.

On the subject of bypass valves, the OEM Tecalamit filter has one staked into the aluminium housing and it is inclined to stick open if the oil hasn't been changed regularly due to a buildup of carbon in the area you can't see behind the valve. I welded it shut after tank cleaning the housing.

oil%20filter%202.JPG


oil%20filter1.JPG
 
Back
Top