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K&N Filter housing.

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Baz

Baz

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I know these come up every now and again, and as a proud owner, I get asked a lot about my filter and housing, so here one is....for the A-Series. Mine was this dirty when I got it, so don't worry about the filth.

eBay A-Series K&N Midget air filter housing

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And that is nice.
 
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Haha, where you get one that says sprite?
 
I bought it years ago, Jack, I think from VB. I just looked in a 1998 Moss catalogue, and they were listing them then, for $169.95!! I think I paid about 80 bucks for mine.
Jeff
 
That parts place out of Belgium sells them, but with Euro exchange rates and other add ons, they worked out to be around $300. $80 is what I paid also.
 
I see you have removed the smog devices. Do you have a close up pic of your SU carbs with the filter so I may see what is and isn't connected. I also notice that the line or breather out of the valve cover is open with no hose. Do you ever get any blowback?
 
Tim, it's Barry.
Welcome!
My Engine came this way, but since that pic was taken, I have put all the smogging stuff back on because I didn't see an appreciable increase in HP and I didn't like the smell of gas when I went round corners.
I'm going to go out on a limb here, and Tim, I hope I'm not intruding, but I'm posting the pic of your engine bay that you emailed me.
I can see that there is a 'something' on the forward 1/3 of the intake manifold, by posting the pic, I hope that someone else here can help you better than I, because I honestly don't know what it is (an EGR valve perhaps).
9169176c25dbda6ce411a69345dca8db0_large.jpg
 
Barry, Likely the infamous "Gulp Valve" is what you should be seeing connected there. Of course depending upon the year of the engine in question.
 
Help me out. It runs pretty well and I have an emmission test exemption due to classic car. Should I just leave it alone? It has been my past experience that motors run better without the smog stuff. Thanks
 
I will do that. This car is so much fun. My kid is going crazy!!
 
Leave in place as I found without one on Bugsy my '68 with '66 1098 installed, without Gulp Valve in place and negative crankcase pressure I thought I purchased the Exxon Valdez. In fact the DPO plugged up the valve cover vent wit ha pice of rubber hose and a spark plug. The Timing Cover Vent included a 3/8" 4" long extender piece that was wedged in place. The result was blowby that had no where to go other than out the rear seal.

Adding gulp valve and correcting plumbing resulted in 7 small drops whenever Bugsy stops anywhere. Not the Quarts per minute that was coming out the back of the engine. He leaks more than he burns at a rate of a qt every 2-3 tanks of gas. Probably not an abnormal amount for a 40 y.o. LBC. I just know not to park on the neighbor's nice new concrete driveway.
 
I'll put in a good word for the gulp valve. If your motor gives the usual tablespoon donation when you park, crankcase ventilation (gulp valve) is a good cure. If you don't have excessive blowby (tough luck for you 1380 guys), the suction provided by the gulp valve keeps the oil from getting past the real scroll "seal". Renewing the tolerances of the rear scroll seal using Paul Asgeirsson's little trick is also a big help. I should have plenty of blowby on a turbocharged 0.040-over 1275, but the rear scroll doesn't leak. It did before the gulp valve. Nuff said.

Glen Byrns
 
Eehhh, what is Paul's little trick?
 
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