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T-Series Just bought MG TD;engine is frozen;suggestion?

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Gunner

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I just hauled in my new project.. 1951 MG TD .. supposedly has a new gold seal engine but the engine hasn't been started in years. After removing the head, my pistons are stamped +.040 on top. Does this mean it is bored out that much? My engine is painted gold on the valve cover and tappet cover. The engine appears to be extremely clean inside. The cylinder walls that are visible appear perfect. This is my first MG TD. Pressing the clutch doesn't disengage the transmission at all. Could the clutch/transmission be the reason the engine will not turn?
Thanks. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
Is there any gold paint on the iron block (or head)?

Regardless... You might be better off buying another engine. They're not that common, but not super-rare either.

Otherwise, you're in for alot of machine shop fees to clean up/bore/hone the cylinders... New pistons and rings, new bearings.... Basically a whole rebuild. If you can get a free-turning engine, it might make the difference... Unless you're just self-masocistic... Or have deep pockets.

Just my 2¢ worth...
 
I don't think the clutch is the problem with not turning over. With the tranny in neutral there wouldn't be enough drag to hold the engine back. Clutch may be rusted to the flywheel but that is another problem altogether. My guess is rust between the cast iron piston rings and the cylinder walls. Try soaking the tops the pistons with PB blaster or some such over several days. Don't rush it and you won't hurt anything. Bob
 
& as you're soaking it, try to turn it over by hand from time to time....jack the rear end up & disconnect the driveshaft, put it in neutral...if it does start moving a little, check to see if the tailshaft also turns
 
I have to disagree with Kenny. Having to purchase a replacement engine for our TD after having thrown a rod at 4200 RPM. I had to pay $1800 for the rebuildable engine and another $1800 to $2000 to get it rebuilt and that was with my doing all the disassembly and reassembly. Replacement engines will either be priced based on the machine work done to rebuild it or will be in need in just as much machine work as the engine you have, plus the price you have to pay for it to start with. Either way, you can figure on a cost of $3500 to $4000 to rebuild an XPAG engine.
 
Fill the top of the pistons with kerosene and let soak for a week. Then put the car in fourth gear and try *gently* pushing it back and forth. If it's still stuck, wait another week and try again. Remember, back and forth...go easy and it may unstick.
If it does, you can probably remove the pistons and hone it lightly. Then replace rings (and rod bearings while your at it) and "Bob's Your Uncle".
Your car is +.040 overbore. That's no problem....+040" rings are easy to get for Moss, etc.
Be patient....I've unstuck a few of these if you give them time.
I'm jealous of your "new" car! Great project....G'luck with it!
 
Thanks for the help. I'm always amazed at the depth of expertise here on the forum, and I appreciate it. I'll soak the cylinders... one and four are at TDC and two and three are at the very bottom, but I'm just hoping for the best.. if the crank isn't broken, etc, I can fix about anything. There is a place in south Georgia that's primarily a Nash Metropolitan salvage yard and parts warehouse, but often also has other MG parts. Maybe mine won't be tooo extensive. My engine is simply dinner-plate clean inside, well lubricated, etc. I remain hopeful for the best.
Thanks again for the help.. keep it coming.
 
Sid - XPAG is a different beast than what you're gonna find in salvage yards - they're getting harder & harder to come by....oh, if you plan to try the rocking technique, leave the driveshaft connected.....
 
kerosene is what was used long ago, but it works, is cheep and works. May take awile so don't rush it.
 
Hello Sid,

I'm surprised that you say that the engine is clean inside yet appears that the pistons are rusted to the bores. It just doesn't add up? How are you trying to turn it, spanner on the front pulley? Is there no rock at all on the crank?
Personally, and assuming that it is a long term car, I would remove the engine and do a further rebuild. If it is the pistons tight in the bores then new rings should do the trick, that and a bearing check. Again, I would not replace the bearings if they look sound, so hopefully it should not be an expensive fix.

Alec
 
If you have to resort to it - pull the engine, drop the crankshaft & tap on the tops of the pistins with a piece of wood between the piston & hammer (the ones in the bottom of the cylinder) or tap on the roads the same way (the ones at the top of the cylinder)....if its stuck real bad, the rings are probably bad ayway.
 
I had that happen to me once and the starter was jammed??? Wasn't an MG engine though. If the engine is spotless inside, Has someone installed new main bearings? and thier too tight? Rod bearings too tight? Has happened before! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif PJ
 
yeah. The starter jammed on me in dad's MGTD a couple of times. But all it would take is rocking it in 4th gear a couple of times to pop it loose. Sounds like you're stuck more than that. Seems really wierd that the pistons would be stuck without the bores being really ugly.
 
I bought a 51TD that didn't have carbs on it and rain got in the cylinders. The whole basket case is missing a lot of parts - so I bought a 72 MGB rust bucket, removed the engine, trans, disk breaks and rearend. They are all going in my 51TD. I overhauled the engine $1,500 with new .030 pistons, hoter cam, new oil pump, double timing chain etc.
The rearend is higher geared and better brakes.
The 72 rustbucket cost me $500 and I need a lot of parts off of it.
This is another option.
BarryE /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
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