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Jeff's hub puller

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drooartz

drooartz

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Jeff - here's my drawing of your puller. Does this look about right? Thanks again, it worked great.
 

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  • 4020-hubpuller.pdf
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I think your way overcomplicating things........

all you need is an 1.5" long piece of Al or steel 1 3/8" or 1.5" diameter bar stock and reduce half the length to 1.062" or so. This fits in the housing end....center drill the plug on the outside center to locate a puller point.

Use a two or 3 jaw puller behind the hub flange.
 
Drew, the center to center distance between the two mount holes is only 4". And the thread for the puller screw is whatever you want to make it. Mine was 12mm because I had a bolt that size handy.
Don't forget the shoulder on the plug for the axle tube, and the divot in the center for the puller screw to fit in.
Jerry, it's not overcomplicating things. I just don't like to use a jaw type puller on a flange. Mine bolts up flat to the flange and distributs the load more evenly.
I knocked this one together in about 45 minutes.
Jeff
 
Looks good. Shouldn't the 1/2" holes be 4" on center as opposed to 5"?
 
ChrisS said:
Looks good. Shouldn't the 1/2" holes be 4" on center as opposed to 5"?
Click to expand...

Gee, Chris, isn't that what I said in the post immediately preceding yours? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
And, if I remember, the holes were 15/32", to accommodate my 7/16" studs.
Jeff
 
Note to self, read all messages posted between leaving work and getting home prior writing replies. Sorry about that.
 
I just made a adapter to fit over my slide hammer/dent puller, it a sqaure palte with four holes for the wheel studs, but really this was overkill, you could just make it out of 1/4"-1/2" flat bar and use only two wheel studs.
 
I like the idea of spreading the force from a slide hammer over all four studs better than just two, Hap. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
I was a bit sleepy when I was drawing that up, here's a new improved version.

This is the only puller I've ever used, and it worked really well. Might have to see if I can get a local metal guy to make one up for me.
 

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  • 4030-hubpuller_v2.pdf
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Drew, I think the thread for the screw was only 12mm, not 21. As I've said, I only used that because I had a bolt that size handy when I made it.
A 1/2" x 13 thread would work just fine.
Hap, I made that one in a hurry, bootlegging it at work. In it's next iteration, it will be a disc with four holes in it, like the oruiginal factory tool.
Jeff
 
I don't remember on the bolt size, I'm sure you're correct. I've updated now for version 3.

Would be nice if these (or a variant) were available from somewhere. I'm not equipped to make tools like this, but I'd pay a fair price for one.
 

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  • 4040-hubpuller_v3.pdf
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OK, so this thread is hereby revived.

Is there a source for this hub puller? Since it isn't a simple one-piece item (from the drawing) it looks like two or three hours work for a skilled guy in a machine shop to make it, so it would cost a couple hundred dollars to have it made it for me as a one-off.

Or is there a way to pull the rear hub that uses standard tools to do the same job?
 
"""""Or is there a way to pull the rear hub that uses standard tools to do the same job? """""

The rear hubs are not much of a press fit unless something is really screwed up like the inner race of the bearing welded to the housing or a lot of rust or corrosion.

You can usually use a length of chain with the end link of the chain on a stud secured with a nut and whip the chain to remove the hub. Alternate left to right side of the hub. If it doesnt come off the second time then use a two or three jaw puller and a scrap of steel stock to cover the housing hole. back the big nut out almost flush the first pull. Usually just a small box wrench on the puller shaft is more than is needed.

You could also use a slide hammer alternating studs...a nut on backwards.
 
I'm with Jerry on this one. I've never encountered a hub that I couldn't remove with a little bit of ingenuity and some grunt. I never felt the job was worthy of a custom tool.
 
Or a piece of flat stock on the end of the axle tube and flip the brake drum around, washers and 3/8-24 nuts on opposite wheel studs tightened alternately to pull off the hub.
 
Aha!

The brake drum trick works like a charm. Only minor issue I had was needing to use an open-ended spanner one flat at a time to tighten the nuts because of the inner flange of the drum, so it was slow - the threads are fine on those studs - but eventually I heard a "thunk" kind of sound and it was loose.

Now I need to get the bearing out of the hub, to renew the seal.

Thanks ChrisS
 
Maybe you could use a Craftsman wrench. and I guess you know why I suggest crafstman
 
ncbugeye said:
Aha!

The brake drum trick works like a charm. Only minor issue I had was needing to use an open-ended spanner one flat at a time to tighten the nuts because of the inner flange of the drum, so it was slow - the threads are fine on those studs - but eventually I heard a "thunk" kind of sound and it was loose. Thanks ChrisS
Click to expand...

Thanks here too. worked like a charm! BTW I wonder how many people on this board are working on the same project at the same time? It sure helps me when I go to ask a question and find the answer there already.
 
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