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I've thought about it.

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Yea, Hap and I agree on something. I really love the idea that you can buff hard in a few years and reshoot the clear.
 
One question, I have heard that there are different clears. Some less shiny then others, is that true or is a matter of the reducer used?

Patrick
 
No clue.
 
Patrick, There are differences in the type of paint systems used, and the correct reducer/thinner (dep. on syst.) for temp. and humidity conditions will affect the quality/clarity of final coats! Each system, applied correctly should give satisfactory results!

Doc. is right about visqueen for paint-booth construction. I would also X the walls with painters blue tape to minimize "billowing" of the plastic walls. Entry access can be effectively provided by overlaps of the plastic where the entrance is placed! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif And Kim, remember the best respirator available is imperrative! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbsup.gif

Real nice job on the B Doc.!! love the plates on her to, coming and going! Sewickley to Brandon eh? hehehe!! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
 
Mike:

Thanks for the info, when my car had the engine compartment painted I shyed away from the clear coat. I will probably have to have the outside clear coated. They had told me that they could apply one that was not as shiney and looked more too the period.

I am curios if they pulling my leg.

Patrick
 
There are different types of clears. It basically is determined by the types of "solids" in the paint suspension.
 
Generally speaking, paints are classified by their solvent base! I.e. Laquer, urathane, alkalyd, enamel, acrylic, epoxy, etc. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbsup.gif
 
jlaird said:
Yea, Hap and I agree on something. I really love the idea that you can buff hard in a few years and reshoot the clear.
Click to expand...

So long as there was good adhesion between the two coats I emphatically agree!! But, I'm sure you have all seen that paint-job where the clear-coat is breaking down and separating, giving a "milky", splotchy or flakey appearance! Most "factory" two-stage jobs seem to break down within 5-6 years (planned obsolescence?), while a well applied, professional after-market two stage job, applied by a knowledgeable painter seems to last problem-free much longer!! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
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