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I've got a situation that needs help solving

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LastDeadLast

LastDeadLast

Jedi Knight
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OK, in a fit of weakness I bought one of those gear reduction starter. I'm trying to fit it now and I had to rotate it several times to get 1. the proper fit, and 2. a place where the exposed wires on the starter wouldn't be fried by the headers.

My problem now is, now that I've rotated the starter to the place that I think is optimum, the various wires (four of them) won't reach to the terminal. I've tried several times to re-rotate the starter but I just can't find a better position.

Anyway, I thought to simplify my resolution I would find a non-fused terminal block heavy-duty enough to handle the amperage that electrical system could throw at it. I would mount the block somewhere in the engine bay then run one wire, say 4 gauge, to the starter terminal.

I've been scouring the Internet for 2 days now, but I can't find a terminal block that can do this. Any suggestions for where to look or another way to do this????

Any help would be appreciated.
 
Re: I've got a situation that need help solving

Shannon, I have installed the gear reduction starter on my TR3 and my son has installed one on his TR6. He has a set of ss headers on his 6 and had no problem with the length of the wires nor with heat from his headers. I don't remember whether he used insulating sleeves on the wires; I had to insulate the wires on my TR8 when I installed its headers. I can give you another piece of advice, however: Use thread lock on the long bolts that attach the starter body to the mounting adapter; the starter loosened up on both our cars in a fairly short period of time.
 
Re: I've got a situation that need help solving

Had the same problem, Shannon. Because the wires ended up very close to the headers (that's the way they had to end up), I wrapped the starter all the way around and on the end with reflective, heatproof wrap. Now, with my wires, I ended up just lengthening the wires with crimped (battery connectors), soldered and heat-shrunk cover on the joint. The other wires were either custom length or entended in the same way.

Bill
 
Re: I've got a situation that need help solving

JFS,

Thanks for the tip about the tread lock. I don't know if I got a different brand or what, but I spend two hours installing, taking off, rotating, and reinstalling until I finally found something that worked... even with the original starter I didn't have much slack, now the terminal is at the bottom of the starter so I about an inch too short.
 
Re: I've got a situation that need help solving

Bill, I could do that.. but I figure if I had a terminal block in the engine bay, it would allow me some freedom in the future... it almost makes it a "quick disconnect" if you will.
 
Re: I've got a situation that need help solving

Shannon, we have Ted Shumacher (TS Imports) starters. That "quick disconnect" sounds like a good security idea.
 
Re: I've got a situation that need help solving

Alan,

They make similar power distribution blocks without fuses, I may go down that route... I never thought to look at a car stereo installation site. Thanks for the tip!

JFS,

I never thought of that, but yes it could be used for security. It would be nice to have a "keyed" block eh?
 
Re: I've got a situation that need help solving

No - it's just a piece of metal with a few holes in it. Works either way.
 
Re: I've got a situation that need help solving

how about a underhood fuse block from an old toyota pick up or something like? Then you could add several fused circuits to your system. I picked one up at the local u-pull it for $15 for added circuits on my TR7.
 
Re: I've got a situation that need help solving

Hi,

A couple ideas available at www.summitracing.com that you could use if you only want to extend the single circuit for the main power lead to the starter:

HLA-87181 is a battery disconnect, with a removeable plastic key (it's trapped when turned to the "on" position, so won't fall out). These are usually used on race cars for emergency disconnect of the battery, but no reason it couldn't be mounted on a simple bracket somewhere underhood, and used as a junction point.

MOR-74145 is a bulkhead connector, to make for a safer,
heavy battery connection passing through a bulkhead. Again, you'd have to fabricate a bracket, but it would provide a junction point.

Many auto parts stores have heavy gauge wires such as you need, and will cut the length you want and some even fit ends on for you while you wait.

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Re: I've got a situation that need help solving

Alan,

Thanks, I hadn't thought of that either, that's a good idea.

I'm going to mull it over tonight, I found another distribution block that might do what I want as well. I'm going to call a engineer friend of mine to see what he thinks. He's my "Run all my stupid ideas by" friend....everybody has one.
 
Re: I've got a situation that need help solving

Your friendly electrical shop will have a thing called a kernee (sp) it is brass/copper and us used to connect two wires/cables together. They are cheep and used from the smallest wire to large cables as big as your arm. They are then wraped with rubber tape. So, just extend your wire to what ever length you need.
 
Re: I've got a situation that need help solving

Shannon,
If you haven't solved your problem yet here is my suggestion. A quick disconnect switch used for the battery supply. These are available from the LBC suppliers but also much less expensively from advanced auto parts or other similar local store.
 
Re: I've got a situation that need help solving

Another option is fusible links. GM used them extensively on starters in the '80s, but don't know if they still do. Should be able to pick up some for cheap even at a dealership. Would give you both the extra length and needed protection.
 
Will this work for you? I used one on a fuse and relay panel when I rewired the TR4. Available at Waytek Wire, Part no. 47211 I also used a keyed disconnect between the battery and the starter as discussed earlier with the key on the inside of the car. Had to make a pretty big hole though, some do not like doing that.

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Making things very complicated. I spliced an extension with wire nuts and wrapped it all in waterproof electrical tape. Just use the appropriate gauge wire.
 
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