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It's Running...

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mjobrien

mjobrien

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Yesterday I got all the timing done and ignition system complete, verified sparc and compression, so I said "heck why not give it a little fuel and see what happens".

So with a little starting fluid guess what happened?

IT STARTED.... after 16 years of not running and a complete rebuild with too many hours and expenses to recall, it came to life!

Next weekend I'll work on the gas delivery and see if I can take it around the block for it's first driving chassis test!
What a great feeling and sound to hear this little 4 cylinder come to life even if it's for only 30 seconds at a time...


Thanks to all for the help in getting this far!
Michael.
 
:cheers: Happy Saint Patrick's Day, one day early. Doesn't a Healey just sound special.

Continued Good Luck.
 
This is a freshly built engine? 30 seconds isn't enough time to break in the cam and lifters. Need to let it run at a good clip (2000-2200 RPM) for about twenty minutes before taking it out on the road. That's twenty consecutive minutes. Check the archives for engine break in. And congratulations. Here is one link
 
OK, so I ran it for 20 minutes at varying RPM's from 1500 to 2200 and all seemed OK with a few little oil leaks and a water leak around the pump, I'll need to address that this weekend.

A Temperature question?

Temp ran up to 190deg F. which seems to be in the operating range on the high side and with a new engine seemed acceptable?

Circulation question?

When removing the radiator cap, there seemed to be slight movement but not a lot, I'm guessing that's typical?

Now I need to fine tune the timing and carbs. Any pointers on these procedures?

Michael.
 
It would have been ideal to run a compression check before the initial run in & after the first run. Normally, a fresh engine will show a compression increase as it breaks in.

I would still reset/check valve lash to see if it has changed during the first 20 minute run. Then do a compression check as a base line to determine if subsequent compression readings are the same.

This is the best way to tell when the rings are fully seated. Most of the time, they will fully seat in the first 20 minute run. Usually there will be some running temperature drop as the rings seat.

Set the carbs as usual.

Set timing to 35 degrees, vacuum advance disconnected, at 4,500 rpm. Let the idle & lower rpm timing fall where it may. If the idle setting appears to be completely out of the ball park, the solution is to have the centrifugal advance recalibrated so as to not exceed the 35 degree maximum advance.

Recheck valve lash periodically to see if it has changed. If you have a good cam & lifters that have broken in correctly, the lash will not change. If the lash continues to increase, there are serious cam/lifter wear problems.

I think it's very good cam insurance to use an oil with high ZDDP content (0.15%) or an additive such as ZDDPlus, or GM EOS.
D
 
Dave,

Thanks this helps.... I did an initial compression test and got approx. 165 plus or minus a few across all cylinders. I'll do this again and see what happened. I did add ZDDP to the oil so I'm covered there.

I'll now need to go and get a timing light....

On the vacuum advance I guess it makes sence to center the adjustment wheel prior to setting the timing?

Noticed one of my oil leaks is on the tach connection? There seemed to be packing on the inside of the tach drive attached to the side of the engine, does this get replaced or greased?

Michael.
 
It sounds promising.

Yes - Center the adjustment wheel.

On the tach, I had the same problem. Didn't know anything was wrong until the tach started getting sluggish & oil dripped out the back & onto my leg.

Look here:
https://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=36375&SortOrder=115

Item #95, Moss #520-440, Oil seal, pinion. Items 95 seal & 96 retainer are actually shown reversed position in the Moss picture.

The tach drive housing is shown here but the parts are not identified. Item #115
https://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=28849

Remove the tach drive housing under the exhaust manifold. Inside where the cable connects there is a split steel retainer sleeve, Moss item #96, that has the seal under it.

This sleeve is very hard to remove & is NA from Moss. I basically collapsed the sleeve by folding one edge inward to remove it. Be careful, you will have to straighten it & reuse. If you screw it up too badly, make a new split sleeve.

Remove the old seal, replace it, replace the sleeve, expand/straighten the sleeve into place, reassemble the drive, make a new drive to engine block gasket, & reinstall.

I very carefully took the tach apart & flushed the blobs of oil out with brake cleaner. Most of the problem oil was on the spiral spring. Back together & worked like a charm, no oil leaks. Don't get any cleaner on the painted tach face or on the plastic light windows.
D
 
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