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Butch

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Ok, thanks to your help I got the hood open using the instructions on one of the tech bulletins. They forgot to put up the sign about all yee who enter here abandon hope. I guess it sat longer than the 6 months they said. Engine compartment completly FULL of mouse nesting stuff, mouse poop, assorted stuff I don't want to know what it is. I removed and washed out, noe waiting for electrical stuff to dry. Good news is it turns over and has spark. One or two wires chewed but nothing important (at least until I see what happens when I start it. I will charge battery I guess and hope for the best. Thanks for the help this far. Butch
 
With any luck you're about to find out that TRs deserve their reputation as being able to take an unreasonable amount of neglect and insult.

If it were me I would change the oil before going farther and then crank the engine with the ignition disabled to confirm oil pressure is there.

Of course, before succumbing to the temptation to drive be double-darn sure the brakes work. A bleed of the system is in order, close examination of hoses, discs, etc will reveal what else is needed there.
 
Seals, seals, seals. I helped a friend with an MG that had spent a winter at his farm. In the next few month we replace a lot of seals.
 
Yeah, when I joined last summer, my just purchased TR3 had been driven only about 300 miles in 22 years. Add: new master cylinder, new fuel hoses, new slave cylinders, fix leaky carbs, etc. Now it starts, stops and only leaks a little! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif
 
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With any luck you're about to find out that TRs deserve their reputation as being able to take an unreasonable amount of neglect and insult.



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My 250 sat for 14 years in a barn before I started working on it the last few months. Has oil pressure, compression in 5 og 6 cylinders, and almost started a few weeks ago. A member of the local club and I were turning it over by spraying fuel into the carbs. It idled for about 5 seconds. I need to hook the fuel puump up. It also backfired causing a little fuel fire on the RF fender. Good thing I had an extinguisher handy. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif

Since then, the car has proceeded to leak its first oil on the garage floor. The LBC is marking its spot.

I am overall impressed with how long it sat, and how easy it turned over once I put a battery in it.

I was lucky, the previous owner did not close the hood all the way, and took out the battery. Do not close you hood all the way until you get the latch situation sorted, it has two latches, I leave mine in postion one when I am done working on it.
 
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...It idled for about 5 seconds. I need to hook the fuel puump up.

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A simple funnel or the long bit from your 'turkey baster' can be used to feed fuel into the line if you choose to run a bit w/o the fuel pump. You did get the fire extiguisher recharged didn't you?

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...Do not close you hood all the way until you get the latch situation sorted...

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When I got my '4 I immediately added a length of nylon rope tied to the latch arm and hanging out over the fender until I got the back-up cable installed.
 
A good place to mount the backup cable is inside the right front wheel well. Don't know where others mount theirs, but that's where mine was.
 
I only used a little bit in the extinguiser. Do I have to get the whole thing recharged again?
 
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I only used a little bit in the extinguiser. Do I have to get the whole thing recharged again?

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Manufacturer says yes, NFPA says yes, but as it is your personal property and your belongings at risk and given the fact that extinguishers are not required in a residential setting, it is up to you.

All that aside. Typical extinguishers used today are a one-shot deal, use some or all and it needs to be re-charged. The extinguishing agent tends to get stuck in the valve and allows the extinguisher to slowly loose its charge, you'll never notice the problem until you go to use it again and oops, no pressure.
 
Also, recall that anything metal that is sprayed with a Class ABC extinguiser will rust like the Dickens! The chemicals used in ABC extinguishers accelerate the rusting process and will literally eat up any untreated metal that is prone to rust. And, it's very difficult to clean the chemnicals off after being sprayed. Just ask any firefighter!

So, be careful what you spray with a Class ABC extinguisher. The area sprayed may be unrecoverable.

CO2 extinguishers may be an alternative.
 
What does a fire extinguisher cost, $5.00? What does restoring a burned out Triumph cost? Priceless ...
 
I checked the extinguisher last night, it is in the red zone, so it is done. Turns out this unit is non-rechargeable.

I also looked at theinner fender where the expellant landed and there is no evidence of corrosion. There is a fire store near here. I will see what they say about corrosion and the expellant.
 
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