Tips on Cut and Buff of Clear Coat, for all you home painters.
I just finished wet sanding to 1500 grit and buffing with blended wool pad. I'm pretty happy with the hood - it is my last panel to cut and buff. But, I learned a few things that I thought I'd share.
First, if you are trying to remove orange peel and flat a panel, you need to use at least 1,000 grit to cut the peel. You can then finish with 1500 and maybe then 2000 grit. You can't cut peel with 1500. You just remove the tips but it won't be mirror flat. Honestly, for most of my work, 1500 was OK but it doesn't give you that show car finish.
Second, if you are using a basecoat/clearcoat system and putting new clear coat on your old clear coat, (for whatever reason), you'd better be sure to put the new clear on thick enough that you don't cut into the old clear below when you are wet sanding. If you cut into old clear below when sanding, you will get ghosting. Ask me how I know this? If you look at the bonnet shots below, you'll see that there is some lightening of the green stripe in a couple locations. I had done some touch up in those areas to improve the stripe and only put two coats on clear on those areas. I cut into the other clear and the finish isn't as perfect as I'd hoped.
Basically, for home painters, I think you can't have enough clear on the car. Repainting panels is very much a drag. Ask me how I know this! Then, ask Jerry (knucklehead) too!
pat

Ghosting in bottom right corner

Ghosting in bottom left corner

Overall, I'm pretty happy with the paint job. I'll never do a longitudinal stripe at home again. If I do, I'll paint stripe in single stage so it's sandable before application of clear (if you sand basecoat, you need to apply more before you clear it - typically you can sand and clear a single state paint and then clear). And I'll stripe car before color coat, not after. Striping and panel alignment (to ensure strip looks right) was 10X more work that I ever thought it would be.