It's gettin' done, slowly...

[PatGalvin]

Hi Pat, thought of another painting question for you. I would be interested to know what gun(s) you painted with and needle sizes.

Cheers
David

Hi David

I bought my guns on line. I started with Devilbiss starting line guns, just to learn. Very cheap but probably good for primer. Then graduated to better quality guns.

Primer (DevilbissFinish Line 3, 1.8 and 2.2 tip)
BC/CC (Devilbiss Tekna Copper, 1.3 and 1.3 tips). - I wish I had 1.3 and 1.4 but new tip is a hundred bucks...
BC/CC (Devilbiss SRI Pro detail gun) - I love this little gun. Low CFM, low overspray, great atomization. Makes it look like I know what I'm doing. Easier to handle than full size gun for an amateur just painting parts. I painted doors and fenders with this. Trunk and hood with full size gun.

Have fun. Lots of learning and challenges ahead!

pat

 

[CJD]

Excellent, Pat. You give me hope!

Have to ask how you mounted the tub on your rotor...I see you used the mounts at the front and rear, but how is it held at the sill area?

I like your price breakdown on the paint. You really have to wonder about those shops that advertise a paint job for under $500, as we can't even buy the paint for 3 times that!

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

Hi Pat,

Thanks again. Yes, I have the two gun Devilbiss Starting Line set with 1.3/1.5/1.8 tips. Good for primer with the 1.8/1.5 Tip. Don't think I want to shoot base with it but some guys have said you can get a half decent (not show)driver quality paint out it. Definately not clear though. Been looking for either a compliant or hvlp gun for clear and am sort of leaning towards the Devilbiss Plus, Iwata LPH400 or the SataJet4000 if I can find a used gun. I cannot justify the $700 plus new for the Iwata or the Sata. I have looked at the Tekna as well. I think that I might try and find a primer gun with a 2.2 tip for the Slicksand as well....
There is a local Craiglist listing for a used Devilbiss Plus and an SRI for $250...might have to give them a call.
Cheers, David

 

[CJD]

You can get a decent spray even with cheap guns. The only problem with the cheap ones is that many will not seal the cup, and drip on your work. That sucks!

If you want to spend on a worthwhile gun option, the disposable cups are very worth the price. You throw the cups away after, which saves a ton of cleanup time. Then all you have to do is run some thinner through the gun and rinse the nozzle. On a day when you are laying a base primer, color, and clear on the same day...the disposables save over an hour in gun cleaning time.

What is BY FAR more important than the price of the gun is getting the water out of the air supply. Whatever it takes, it is very worth it. The water accumulates and ends up spitting about the time you are switching to the clear...ruining the spray.

 

[PatGalvin]

Excellent, Pat. You give me hope!

Have to ask how you mounted the tub on your rotor...I see you used the mounts at the front and rear, but how is it held at the sill area?

I like your price breakdown on the paint. You really have to wonder about those shops that advertise a paint job for under $500, as we can't even buy the paint for 3 times that!

Hi John
I initially welded two square steel tubes across the sills (front and back) and attached the rotisserie main bar to these cross pieces, using spacers and home-made "U" shaped threaded stock. Then, when I was ready to paint the bottom of my girlfriend (wife calls her Gwyneth), I ended up drilling holes in the sill and bolting angle iron to the sills and then welding those same cross piece steel box tubes to the angle iron. Hope this makes sense.

 

[CJD]

Thanks Pat...that explains what I see in the pics. It looks like building the rotor was well worth it in time saved!

 

[PatGalvin]

Thanks Pat...that explains what I see in the pics. It looks like building the rotor was well worth it in time saved!

. I think if I had several buddies nearby at my beck and call that could help me pick up and maneuver the car as needed, I might not have needed the rotisserie. I sure made it easier to work on the car solo.
pat

 

[PatGalvin]

This is a photo of a toy TR3A that I've had for a couple years. I thought this stripe looked great. I was planning to lay down the stripes and then reclear over each striped panel. Then color sand and buff to bury stripe in the clear. Has anyone seen a stripe like this on a TR3A? Any comments or suggestions. It seems like the stripe should maybe be wider and the companion stripes narrower (just maybe 1/4 or 3/8 inch wide on companion stripes. Thoughts? suggestions? Laughter?

 

[Darrell_Walker]

Hi Pat,

No idea on the process, but I agree that the center stripe should be bit wider, and the side stripes a bit narrower.

I'll have to dig around, I think one of the old TRF catalogs had a drawing of a TR2/3 with what I thought was a really nicely proportioned stripe.

-Darrell

 

[Jerry]

I like the stripe wider also. And maybe a bright color??? Looks good. By the way, I saw the paint booth you made, did you feel cramped when spraying? I think I can get a 10 wide area except where my lift posts are positioned. Going to buy the wood and plastic today.

Jerry

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

Hi Pat,

Here is the old painted stripe on mine. I took some measurements before I stripped it off so I can put it back in black.

Cheers
Dave

 

[PatGalvin]

Hi Dave
Can you send me the stripe dimensions? This is exactly what I want! Looks great, by the way.
Pat

 

[PatGalvin]

I like the stripe wider also. And maybe a bright color??? Looks good. By the way, I saw the paint booth you made, did you feel cramped when spraying? I think I can get a 10 wide area except where my lift posts are positioned. Going to buy the wood and plastic today.

Jerry

Hi Jerry
My paint booth was 9' w by 16' l by 7' h. This is a great size for parts painting - tons of room to move around. I haven't pulled the body in yet. But I think that 10' wide would be better, if you can make room for that. I would make it closer to 20' long, if I could but 16' is all I can afford. The tub is only about 12' long, so that gives you just a little room on each end if you are doing full paint. I painted my engine compartment already, so can push that end up tight to the booth and will have plenty of room to paint apron and sides (I hope). More on this after this weekend's adventures.
Pat

 

[PatGalvin]

Weekend Update!
Painted tub, two front fenders, and front apron. Sanded and repainted one rear fender, where I had a couple hairs in the paint. Am very happy with the result and most defects "will buff out". Hard to avoid a little dust and debris when spraying at home. White may be forgiving on your body work but sure shows every bit of dust and hair. Darker color probably wouldn't show that.

Tips:

Get a paint suit and wear it. You track in a lot of hair and debris on your clothes.
Buy painters plastic from auto paint store, not home depot plastic. And use the side that says "paint this side". Plastic is treated so paint will stick. Home Depot plastic will shed paint like dandruff flakes.
Get supplied air respirator setup (i.e., HobbyAir). There is no way I could have done with with a cartridge respirator- you need a lot of ventilation to use a cartridge unit. As it was, I felt pretty bad after all the VOC exposure.
Prepping and masking takes a lot longer than painting.
Set up your gun with high pressure at the wall and throttle down at the gun. Wall should be at compressor pressure (say 125 psi or so) and gun pressure is gun-specific.

Triumph fits pretty well in 16' by 9' booth. Bigger is always better

Really happy with this rear apron.

Really happy with Front Apron too!

I must be a very nice guy as my neighbors put up with me...

My wife is too cool about this project. I can't believe she was OK with my proposed parts storage...

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

Very Cool Pat!

 

[Tr3aguy]

Wow Pat>>>> I really think your car has moved along and will last a long time....

 

[tinman58]

PAT!
Awesome work.
When you are done my Wife's 250 will fit in your spray booth!!!!!

 

[TexasKnucklehead]

Looking good.

Please say that if you were to do it over again, you'd spend a lot less time block sanding.

I am tired of it, and have a long way to go... I hope mine comes out nearly as well.

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

Hi Pat,

Measurements on the stripe.

1/4" red-1/4"white-8 1/2" Red-1/4" white-1/4" red

Cheers
Dave

 

[PatGalvin]

Thanks very much David! Very much appreciated.
Pat