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it's cold outside

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That's a good point Hap, I'm used to just jumping in my Midget and going.
If I would let it idle for a few minutes before I drive there's no doubt I'd have some heat before long.

This morning it was cold for the first 3/4 of my trip. I only drive about 15 miles each way so the warm air started at about 10 miles in. If I would let it sit and warm up for 5 minutes I'd have heat within the first 5 minutes of my drive. I'll have to work on that, just get up 5 minutes earlier I guess.
 
Do not let it idle cold, creates gunk. Put a cardboard in front of the radiator.

Cut off about 1/3 of the air flow, try it.
 
Like others have mentioned it will help to restrict the airflow.

Don't consider it a bandaid. Consider it a repair modification. Look at all the big rigs that used to come with closable flaps in front of their radiators.

We used to have to block off the radiators in the Martinis(Formula Three cars with Novamotor engines) just to warm them up when we were in Portugal and France...

Gotta remember that auto design is a continually evolving procedure. Sadly, more is done for cost control than ideal operation conditions...
 
Yes, I have the center 8 inches blocked now.
I'll check to make sure that didn't shift - it's just a piece of black poster board. It does eventually warm up, but the colder it is outside the longer it takes.
 
If it is not right, increase the size of the cardboard. Size is dependant upon temp.
 
OK, I finally got enough courage to get at the thermostat.

After getting the smog pump off, I was able to lift off the thermostat cover and gain access to the thermostat. What was weird, was none of the bolts were stuck, and in fact, a few seemed kinda loose, yet nothing was leaking.

It's an 180 degree thermostat, and after testing it opened up maybe a little early at 175 degrees, but that could be the cheap meat thermometer I was using.. I'll head out and see if I can find a 190 F thermostat, and if that doesn't fix the problem, I'll go the cardboard route !!

question on the gasket, can I reuse the cork gasket that is there? Or should I but some gasket material and fashion a new gasket.
 
Let me ask a dumb question at this point, did you ever open the heater valve at the back of the block? Another thought, did you check to make sure a heater blanking plate, little thing that fits inside the thermostat housing to block coolant flow over to the heater core was never installed?
 
walshja said:
can I reuse the cork gasket that is there? Or should I but some gasket material and fashion a new gasket.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't, plus I hate the cork ones anyway, they are famous for pushing out when you tighten down, I make my own with the black gasket paper, they now come that way with a Payen head gasket set. The black paper won't squeeze out like the cork will.
 
Jim_Gruber said:
Let me ask a dumb question at this point, did you ever open the heater valve at the back of the block? Another thought, did you check to make sure a heater blanking plate, little thing that fits inside the thermostat housing to block coolant flow over to the heater core was never installed?
Click to expand...

Jim, the heater valve is open fully, and I will look into the blanking plate. is the plate below the thermostat? I wasn't thinking I have problems with my heater, as it works fine, real fine in the summer.

Would any of those things affect the operating temperature of the car?

Hal, I just got a 195 F thermostat from my auto store, and a new gasket will arrive tomorrow morning, so it will be buttoned up with a new gasket. They guy at the store couldn't tell what material the gasket is made of, probably not cork I would think.

figures, the weather warmed up in Connecticut, might have to wait a few days to test all this out.
 
I for one want to know if this helps, please report after your testing.
 
quick question, I am about to head down to the garage and install the new thermostat

I have a new gasket, but do I need some kind of sealant to put around the thermostat? or do I just drop it in, use the new gasket and close everything up?

it's cold out, so tonight will be a good test !!
 
OK, I dropped in the new thermostat (195 degree F), installed the new gasket, got the air pump mounted and the got belt tight, took her out for a test drive, and the temperature problem is solved ! this can all be done in 1/2 hour time, even less on earlier cars without the air pump.

the car warmed up in the garage to the proper temperature in just a few minutes, and it maintained that temperature for my test drive without fluctuating. it's 29 degrees F outside, and the heat was blowing hot on my legs (what a difference that makes in the car, I still ride with the top down).

so in the end, all our cars need is the proper thermostat.
 
:thumbsup:
 
And keep in mind the winter and the summer thermostat are different and should be changed.
 
I put in the cork it pushed out the follwing saterday I just cut one from gasket matreail.

Im still driveing with the top down!!!
cheery
steve
 
Use regular gasket material not cork. Put a bit of stickem on it like blue permatex.
 
True to form I installed my 195F Tstat today - TWICE.
OK, I thought the old gasket looked fine so I reused it. Stupid.
After finding it leaked I pulled it apart and used the $1.25 gasket I bought.
This time it worked right, sealed up tight.

Started the car, temp gauge went up to 190F & stayed right there.
Went out for a drive, sometime it would blow warm air and sometimes not.
I don't get it. The engine is hot, the coolant is hot.
Is there some reason it's not flowing through the heater?
When the Tstat closes does the coolant stop flowing?
I'm perplexed.

Of course this is made a bit more complicated with the Nissan 1500 motor in there.
I have the MG radiator and the Smiths heater box.
Next I will open the vents down in the footwells and see what the temp of the air is there.
 
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