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It's always the grounds

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T

tr8todd

Jedi Knight
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I've been tinkering with an all original TR8 that was recently dragged out of 10 years of storage. Sorted thru most of the usual electrical, hydraulic, and rubber component gremlins, but just couldn't get the car to start without a great deal of effort. Once it started, it ran fine. I was getting frustrated and dreaded the thought of pulling and rebuilding the stock carbs. Anyone who has a stock TR8 knows what I'm talking about. So off came all of the useless clutter on the engine in favor of a nice clean 4 barrel. Figured while I was at it, I'd install headers, a new rad and electric cooling fan as well. Get it all done - same problem- won't start without major effort. Clean the battery ground in the engine bay and where the ground cable at the battery ties into the trunk floor. Turn the key and vroom. Starts and runs easier than any other TR8 I've ever had. I should have known better. Always check the grounds first on a British car. I'm sure I saved myself some future aggravation at least by doing the swap.
 
Word! Had the same issue with my bule coupe. 20 small gauge grounds in the engine bay when it only needed one of the same size of the battery ground and it cranked over and fired right up!
 
Should have known better. Race car has three large engine grounds, and the one at the battery gets welded to the body. Why did I think one untouched stock 30 year old cable was sufficient? The spark was weak because it couldn't find ground. I'll add a second cable one just to be sure.
 
Methinks you've stumbled on a new slogan for our LBC's and those who care for them:


<span style="color: #CC0000"> <span style="font-size: 26pt"> IT'S THE GROUNDS, STUPID!! </span> </span>

:devilgrin:
 
tdskip said:
Mickey - stop hinting around and just say it already.... <grin>

Where did you attach the extra grounds guys?
Click to expand...

When I reworked mine, I used a heavy ground cable from the engine block (under the motor mount) to the frame rail. Scraped the paint off the rail, and used a large star washer to bite into the metal on both ends. Coated with plenty of dielectric grease. No problems so far.
 
I'll probably run one from under a bell housing bolt over to the battery tray. That is what was done on the TR7s.
 
I'm ,as I have posted else where, going to run a new ground wire to the front from the boot connection to the front rail where I have my Alt. connected to. I have also read where a person connected a small one from the nut that has the battery ground to the rail too.
 
Tom, what do you want pics of?
After I finish the cable redo,sometime this week, I'll send you photos if you wish.
I would really like to run the cable to the front and terminate in something like this. I could then run leads from here.
pdb4.jpg
 
On my buddies TR8, we put a couple of power blocks in the engine bay. One was for switched power(white) and one was for constant power(red). The switched power was fed thru a relay so all of the power didn't run thru the ignition switch. They were fused, and used to pull power for things like the electric fan, aftermarket fuel pump, radio, electric gauges, and ignition box. Much easier and cleaner than digging under the dash for wires. Also made hooking up a timing light easier. On another car, I just used a 4 fuse MGB fuse block to feed power inside the engine bay. Not having any power sources inside the engine bay is a major design flaw on the TR8.
 
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