• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

It's Alive, It's Alive I Tell You

Share this page

T

TRDejaVu

Guest
Guest
Offline
One more Triumph back from the dead.

The barn find TR4 went down the street under its own power, while frightening small children and animals due to a temporary exhaust system that is at least 28 years old. I got it into 3rd so it appears that the clutch wasn't sticking. It went where I pointed it and even stopped when commanded.

Now to the point. What are the recommendations for cylinder head re-torquing and when? I have a copper head gasket from Moss.
 
congrats! Before driving too far, I would recommend that you push out all the hydraulic fluid replace with fresh. A pressure bleeder (Motive) works really well and I think they even sell different colored fluid so you know ehn the new stuff is at each bleeder. All you do is fill the bleeder tank with fresh fluid, pump it up to 12-15psi and then open each bleeder until the new fluid comes out, then tighten it. Repeat for each wheel and the clutch slave.
 
Thanks Peter,

I didn't take any chances, so I had already replaced all the brake and clutch pipes and either overhauled or replaced calipers, master and slave cylinders, and rear cylinders. I have also replaced just about everything rubber. I also went over the suspension front and back as needed.
 
When I rebuilt my old TR6 engine using a copper head gasket, I put 50-100 miles on the car before retorquing.
 
Not sure if this will help you. It doesn't mention copper gasket but if anything maybe it will kick it to the top and someone can comment. My TR3A Bently manual says, "When replacing the cylinder head nuts tighten them gradually in the sequence shown (I assume you know the sequence) in order to produce an even pressure on the gasket and prevent undue strain on the cylinder head casting." "It will be neccessary to recheck the nut tightness when cold to 100-105 lb. ft." Then it goes on to say, "after the first 1000 miles the cylinder head nuts should be checked for tightness, with the engine hot, in the order shown." (Same sequence of tightening).
 
Congratulations! I guess I should have mentioned this first. I remember the first day I got the 3 running with an open (rusted through) head pipe. I was sitting on a wooden milk crate driving up and down the street with both of my kids sitting on the floor of the car. They loved it.
 
I know its great to get it moving again, but its not really back from the dead until you kill all the metal worms.......this is more work than just wrenching, it involves witchcraft!!
MD(mad dog)
 
They probably left the factory rusty, so in my book, if it's roadworthy then it's alive. I'm not interested in creating a trailer queen, partly because I want to drive it and also because I can't afford the $$$ or time to rebuild it from the first bolt upwards. This will hopefully be a rolling resto that won't take too many years to complete. I had two TR's back when they were just cars (albeit fun ones) and I am looking to relive a driving experience where I drive the car and not where the car electronics keep me artifically safe.

Thanks to all for the encouragement and responses to the many questions (some because I forgot from first time around and some just plain dumb).
 
Congrats, I can still remember the first time we (my sons and two of their buddies) got my 30 year garage full of parts 61TR3A running again. Now half a year latter she is still not done, but every weekend for an hour or so I'm cruising around the hills of my hometown. This is the best birthday present you could ever ask for. Don't worry about the restoration, there are already enough garage queens, we need more cruisers.
Enjoy your ride, that's what they were built for.
RL
 
It is alive! I'm not sure about leaving the factory rusty but I'm sure the ride over on the boat must have had some influence on the patina. If not, I think they allowed the steel to rust prior to assembly as part of the hardening process. Don't sweat the "it has to look good to drive it stuff". Just make sure it's safe! My 3 happens to be the go to car. Go to Blockbuster, go to Stop and Shop, go to Walmart, go pick up fast food stuff, bring the kids to baseball practice, let the baseball team sit in the car and don't mind the batting helmet when it slams against the fender its all part of the fun. When the "modern pretty cars" break in my household it seems like it's the 3 that always picks them up and drops them off at the repair shop.(That is except when it's raining... Then they have to walk)

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
 
Back
Top