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It runs, and good even!

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Not wideband.
You need wideband.
Try a "do it yourself wide band" or diy-wb, using a honda sensor.
https://www.aces.edu/~parmega/efi/temp/wb/guide.html
https://www.diy-wb.com/

BTW air:fuel ratio 13:1 is also many times referred to by its dimensionless value lambda 13/14.7 = 0.88 while stoichiometric is lambda 1.0. The guage can be calibrated as such.
 
I'd get rid of that biased needle and convert the carb to solid needle, Joe Curto make a conversion bushing for that, I think I'd try a #6 solid needle for starters, with the jet about .070" down the bridge. If it rich, it will start breaking up in the higher RPMs. Chassis dyno time is the cheapest besat thing you can do, regardless if you can drive it on the street not, about 1/10 the cost of going to the track and not running right, plus kinda hard to go 6000+ rpm in 4th gear on the street, but on the chassis dyno, no problem. When you get ready to trick that HS4 out, let me know.
 
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