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Mike

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It happened once again. You guys were very generous in offering information on a previous post. I have a little bit more input on the symptoms.

I got stuck in first again and muscled it out and then could not get back in any gear. I noticed the clutch pedal seemed not to return back out. Pump the pedal a few times and it backed out and everything was fine. I hoping this input helps you guys narrow down your feed back. I will be changing out all the fluids once I can get it up on a rack or jacks. I'm only driving it around the neighborhood until I can get the title and plates so she seems to act up after about a good 5- 10 minutes out on the road. It has only happened twice in about 6 short drives. The fluid level in the master cylinder is okay and the transmission fluid is okay.

I would like to take the best approach. I breifly spoke with a British Auto repair place and of course I didn't like what they had to say. " These car cost a lot to work on because of their age. Plan on spending $2,000.00 to replace all of the hydraulic lines, Master Cylinder, Slave Cylinder and brake stuff".<span style="text-decoration: underline"> I plan to work on her myself</span> but I thought a garage oppinion would be helpful. I've been around long enough to know that garages can over sell, but in all fairness to the garage, It was just an opinion.

Any input will be appreciated

Mike
 
Yea that being old really adds to the the repair cost....?
Parts a easy to find and pretty darn cheap as compared to other classics and the system for the brakes and clutch are very straight forward. Easy Peazy lemon squeezy!
Old so its expensive geeez.
You have tons of support here you can do it yourself.
Sounds from your discription that a master cylinder kit may be in order 15 to 20 tops. a new Slave if that the problem is maybe 40
A new hose another 15.
If you were able to pump it up and get some clutch out of it I would check the resivor level and see if it has dropped.
if not you probley need a MS kit. If theres fluid on the exterior of the slave cylinder a slave is in order. Have a look at the hose and see if it is wet and or bulges when the clutch is depressed if so replace it.
 
I think it's a little premature to replace the hard lines for either the clutch (which you may be having trouble with) or the brake. The soft line is another story. Have had two MGB's with soft line problems. With age they will degrade internally. Mine would pass fluid TO the slave but would not readily let it return. At any rate, inexpensive enough to add to your list. Good luck, Bob
 
Well, I'm a happy camper now! Got a floor jack and cranked her up a little so I could get under and see her bottom. Wow, its pretty simple stuff! Each day I fall more in love with this car.

Thanks for the comments.

Mike
 
It certainly should cost you nowhere near that quote you got, especially if you can do a lot, if not all of it, yourself!! I too would suggest checking/replacing the "soft" line as they are known to fail internally and still look good from the outside. The BE does not have that soft line, but a coiled (to take up any vibrations/movement) "hard" line. I think this could also be done in newer cars to eliminate that pesky soft piece that is prone to failure!
 
Description indicates M/C or slave problem, but it's actually CHEAP to rebuild 'em! Bob hit it well, kits or complete replacement of M/C, flex line and slave wouldn't come ANYWHERE near that "guesstimate" with (your) free labor. $200 would likely be about the MAX for all the bits.

The "age" issue can be a real factor in repair simply because things are corroded, line fittings suffer forty years' worth of rounding off by other hands, lots of unknowns... I think that's what the shop guy meant. It ~can~ be very difficult to do a timely repair on older cars if they've suffered "sins" at the hands of PO's. It can also be a joy to do those things on a car which has been well cared for and properly respected. Wiring, the much maligned (unjustly IMO) Joe Lucas & Sons arrangements are the systems to suffer most at the hands of folks who have little respect for the cars we drive.

One of the articles in the "Writer's Corner" is my take on this issue. The "Prejudice" one.
 
Mike:

Last winter/Spring my son and I fought with the clutch issue for about six weeks. I had the MC professionally rebuilt/re-sleeved but suffered from the same symptoms you are describing.

Ultimately we had to re-do the rebuild kit (new cups, etc), but this time we used DOT 4 - NOT DOT 5! The DOT 5 swelled the rubber pieces, making it impossible to build the necessary pressure to move the slave/clutch, Once we did the rebuild/DOT 4 switch we have been operational and without problems ever since.

Mike Pennell
 
I on the other hand am running DOT 5 with no problems. I did have to buy a new clutch master as the interior was pitted but once that was resolved it literally took minutes.
 
Add my vote for DOT 5. I rebuilt the brake system in my 72 MGB in the mid 70's. PO had used DOT 3 and brakes were already giving trouble. DOT 5 was a new thing then and I gave it a try. I still have the car and brakes are great to this day. I hate to admit it but I hav'nt even bled them in that time. I've done several other british brake systems recently with 5 and my only trouble has been a tendancy for maybe a little seeping from the master I think because the rubber DOS'NT swell and the 5 has more lubricity. Hey, if you have a seep it at least won't eat your paint like other fluids!! What ever you do flush the system out with a disposable syringe and alcohol and blow the lines clean since 5 is'nt compatible with 4. I would'nt be a bit surprised if your problems are from a PO using DOT 3. If you have the original dual master and your brakes are OK you, of course, would want to stick with 4 because of compatibilty issues but will want to bleed the brake system thorougly to make sure theres nothing nasty left in it. Have fun!!! tinkering is fun and rewarding tooo!!!
 
At LOTO there was a lot of talk about the pros & cons of DOT5 and I think that about the only consensus is that there are more than one formulation of DOT5. I have always used NAPA brand DOT5 (for about 25 years so far) and have NEVER had any problems with it (4 different British cars, no problems so far). I have no idea about any other DOT5 but I will swear by NAPA's.
Bill
 
While I have no desire to start the debate again - (it has happened about every six months or so - right?)

anyway, my good friend Larry who has helped me more than I have a right to assures me his friend the engineer has written a report that says there is no difference.

His point is simple, if DOT5 ruined brake systems, the lawsuit line would stretch around the block.
 
It's the materials the seals/cups are made of. Some of the older kits are NOT compatible with DOT-5. The supply of NOS stuff shows up once in a while, most times DOT-3/4 goes in 'em. If DOT-5 is introduced, the "rubber" parts start to degrade. It'll be rare to find that happen now.

To be sure any kit component is not going to give you a problem, soak it for a few hours in DOT-5 before you assemble it... old seals will swell visibly and get slimy.

Most of what we're getting now as replacement is newer and will work with any of it. Some kits may be problematic, though. If the box is a yellow "LOCKHEED" one and is numbered with an "SP-XXXX" better to test it first. Otherwise you're probably safe.
 
Thanks for that info! The fact that they are using different rubber in the kits now explains a lot. I've been wondering for a while why there are'nt any warnings against using dot 3 out there anymore. I've even seen supposed experts advocating dot 3!!! Different rubber would explain that.
 
Time was, all those cups were made of "natural rubber" too! Those are long since gone. THEY were eaten by DOT-4. Suppliers scrambled.


JP's pal's explanation is inverse to the 'cause-and-effect' issue...

JP said:
His point is simple, if DOT5 ruined brake systems, the lawsuit line would stretch around the block.
Click to expand...

Actually, the tail wags the dog in this case. That's as descriptive an explanation as I'll venture. I'm attempting to be "diplomatic". DOT-5 is compatible with CONTEMPORARY cups and seals. We're outside the loop. 40+ year old English car owners attempting to file suit against a DOT-5 manufacturer would be laughed out of the lawyer's office, nevermind a court.
 
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