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After purchasing my first Sprite in June (its a '66 body with a 1275), I finally got it back from the shop (new clutch slave and master cylindar) after what seemed like a year. I took it out for the first time today, and boy is it fun to drive! It doesn't like to start unless it is hooked up to a charger, for maybe 1 minute. I am assuming I just need a new battery, right? Also, when it is in gear, it makes a sort of grinding noise like it is not fully in gear, even though it accelerates fine. Maybe it is just the noise of a 45 year old car? I have a whole host of issues that I hope to tackle this winter when I have more free time. What are the "easiest" of the following issues: Tach doesn't work, headlamps don't work, horn was disengaged because it went off whenever I would turn the wheel, turn signal lever is loose inside its housing. If you cannot tell, I am a COMPLETE NOVICE when it comes to cars. I am hoping to learn about the engine through reading the manuals, because honestly, I do not know what to look for as far as the sounds, smells, etc. Any insight is appreciated. I am really excited I decided to buy my mid-life crisis car at 33.
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Issues with my first Sprite
- Thread starter tfrisoni
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BugeyeNJ58
Jedi Hopeful
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Welcome to the Forum and congratulations on buying your first Sprite. There's a lot of people on this board with an amazing amount of knowledge.
First of all, buy yourself a manual. You can't work on the car without one, especially if you're a complete novice. You'll also need some type of voltmeter, whether its simple or complex, to work on anything electrical on the car.
First thing, check the fuses. Are they OK? If not replace, and get spares, you'll need them. First thing to check is what the voltage is at the battery. Check what the voltage is when the car is running at a fast idle. It should be greater than 12 volts, ideally around 13 - 14 volts. If you're not getting that are the battery terminals, then there's a charging issue, if you're getting that then it's a battery issue.
More later...oh and check the condition of the terminals where they're connected, they should be clean.
First of all, buy yourself a manual. You can't work on the car without one, especially if you're a complete novice. You'll also need some type of voltmeter, whether its simple or complex, to work on anything electrical on the car.
First thing, check the fuses. Are they OK? If not replace, and get spares, you'll need them. First thing to check is what the voltage is at the battery. Check what the voltage is when the car is running at a fast idle. It should be greater than 12 volts, ideally around 13 - 14 volts. If you're not getting that are the battery terminals, then there's a charging issue, if you're getting that then it's a battery issue.
More later...oh and check the condition of the terminals where they're connected, they should be clean.
Pythias
Jedi Knight
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When I bought my sprite it was in similar shape. Speedo-bouncy, Tach-non functional, turn signals-nope, headlights-one, horn-none, wipers-nah, wiper motor-in the box, tail lights-dark, fuel gauge-still not working, engine--i quart of oil to three tanks of gas, brake master--leaky ... all this and I had next to no mechanical experience, no tools, and no BCF or "list". ..
Now, a mere 15 years later,that's all fixed and there are no rattles or squeaks. Tt's reliable enough that I was going to drive it cross country till my back acted up two days before time to leave.
my advice is make sure the brakes work, then to drive the crap out of it while the weather is nice. Tackle the safety issues first, the convenience issues next and the esoterica last (that's why my gas gauge STILL isn't fixed-don't really need it)
Put in a good horn right away though. People don't register how close the car is because it's so small.
Now, a mere 15 years later,that's all fixed and there are no rattles or squeaks. Tt's reliable enough that I was going to drive it cross country till my back acted up two days before time to leave.
my advice is make sure the brakes work, then to drive the crap out of it while the weather is nice. Tackle the safety issues first, the convenience issues next and the esoterica last (that's why my gas gauge STILL isn't fixed-don't really need it)
Put in a good horn right away though. People don't register how close the car is because it's so small.
BugeyeNJ58
Jedi Hopeful
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Is it my imagination or does there seem to be a lot of activity going on in Wisconsin? It must be the Midget 50th festival that's infected the area!
Jim_Gruber
Yoda
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A '66 is Positive Ground. Does the + terminal on the battery go to the firewall? If not that could be the reason the Tach is not working. Generator and fuel pump don't care if they run + or - Ground. Other accessories do. Please consult with us before you go changing things. We don't want you to let the smoke out of the wiring harness.
BugeyeNJ58
Jedi Hopeful
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Not to worry, Moss Motors sells replacement NOS - New Old Smoke! :laugh:
Jim_Gruber said:
So I think I figured out the starting issue. I think I was just flooding the engine by pumping the gas. I'll never make that mistake again. But it brings me to another question. I cannot get my headlights to work, but the parking lights work fine. Upon inspecting the wires, everything appears okay (no obvious breaks). Fuses all look good. The car appears to be negative ground as the negative runs to the firewall. Even though the car is a '66, it has an engine from a '68 and who knows what era some of the other stuff is from. Being a novice and trying to learn from the manuals, I am having a hard time understanding if parts are from a '66, '68, or something else. I am not sure which wiring diagram to reference in the Haynes manual. Thanks for the help.
regularman
Yoda
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There is a diode in the fuel pump that cares very much about the polarity if its a stock SU fuel pump.
Jim_Gruber
Yoda
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With a wiring diagram you are ahead of the curve. I've got the opposite car from your's. Bugsy is a '68 Sprite with a '66 1098 engine. Use the '66 Wiring diagram. Unlikely that the PO replaced entire wiring harness.
Lighting issues are likely from green corrosion on bullet connectors. Take each one apart and clean up with sandpaper until you get the electrons to flow. There are several bullet connectors in the harness going down the PS going to the headlights. When Bugsy came home not a single electrical device worked. All had succumbed to green on the contacts. Everything came back to life after taking them all apart, again one at a time, cleaning , and reassembly. Your VOM is your friend in this case. Good luck.
Lighting issues are likely from green corrosion on bullet connectors. Take each one apart and clean up with sandpaper until you get the electrons to flow. There are several bullet connectors in the harness going down the PS going to the headlights. When Bugsy came home not a single electrical device worked. All had succumbed to green on the contacts. Everything came back to life after taking them all apart, again one at a time, cleaning , and reassembly. Your VOM is your friend in this case. Good luck.
