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Tinster

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This fuel line into the fuel pump looks kinda funky to me.

I am just guessing here that the fuel might be restricted
a tad in it's flow into the new pump.

For future reference, please. When a flared pipe rotates
along with the end fitting, how do you remove the assembly
and NOT end up with this kind of mess? I tried every
combination of wrenches to break it free until the hex
end fitting was rounded. Channel locks resulted in this
photo. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/confused.gif /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wall.gif

Why is NOTHING ever straight forward with the Crypt Car?
Advice appreciated since I am changing out all the fuel
pipes in the car right now.

d

fuelLine2.jpg
 
Cut the pipe before you remove the nut.
You gotta replace it anyway...
 
Yup, It`s a problem! Looks pretty restricted to me! {Not to mention UGLY.} I`v never seen copper used as a gas line, I suspect the original was steel. Copper just doesn`t do well with flared fittings, there more "User friendly" with compression fittings. I myself, would deffinately change it out with a steel line.
Kerry
 
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gif


That looks like some sorta "art piece" now, Dale! Mebbe you could mount it on a block of "native driftwood" and sell it in one of the tourist trap shops onna island?
Recoup some of the funds for the fuel pump replacement. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
DrEntropy said:
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gif


That looks like some sorta "art piece" now, Dale! Mebbe you could mount it on a block of "native driftwood" and sell it in one of the tourist trap shops onna island?
Recoup some of the funds for the fuel pump replacement. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
Click to expand...

BRILLIANT, Doc! ~I gotta go dig out all my old brake lines and fan belts! Must be a small fortune in there!~
 
Ouch!!

Are you telling me the copper fuel lines are not
TR6 original?

Yet another DPO Pedro half a$$ed POS I have to deal
with? No wonder all the automotive stores looked at me
like I was brain dead asking for 1/4" diameter soft
copper fuel lines.

And the Crypt Car is sitting in the garage with a very
full tank of gasoline. With the bottom fitting situated
well below the bottom elevation of the gas tank.

Curses upon you DPO Pedro!! You ........!!

d
 
If this is on the pressure side, maybe you could temporarily fit the engine with and ultra-high pressure fuel pump and it would straighten the line right back out as soon as it starts.
Well... maybe replacement would be a better option.
Glenn
 
Copper is a no-no as far as I'm concerned. Steel for fuel and brakes. Copper ain't "automotive plumbing" material.
 
Hey Mickey!

You just really impressed me a bunch.
Being bilingual is one fine thing; local
jargon specific to one country is quite another.

How'd you catch THAT one?? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/devilgrin.gif /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/nonono.gif

Man, I just hate dumping a full tank of gasoline
down the driveway and into the ocean. Any suggestions
how to remove it? I have like 10 inches of working
space on that side of the Crypt car.

d
 
Tinster said:
Man, I just hate dumping a full tank of gasoline
down the driveway and into the ocean.
Click to expand...

use a pan!
dont dump gas any where!!! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/mad.gif
 
Dale,

I would cut the line ahead of the twisted piece and insert a piece of rubber fuel line. Put on a couple of extra clamps if you are uneasy about the install and drive 'ol Crypty until it's nearly out of fuel. THEN drain the tank and replace the line.

Chances are that the line going into the tank is probably also going to give you the same problem as the first line did...be prepared with a large pan to accomodate fuel spillage.
 
If it were I, I would first try to syphon what I can from the tank into a fuel can or cans. There shouldn't be much left in the tank after that. Probably then I would be able to place an "oil change" pan under and drain the remainder into it.
 
Well, now it is certainly a moot point about the gasoline.

Gasoline is streaming out from inside the frame
just behind the driver's front wheel.

With a flashlight above, I can just make out a split
in a rubber hose that enters the frame.

Car on jackstands but when I reach under to try to
find the split hose, my upper body is quickly drenched
in gasoline that runs down my arm onto my shoulders,
etc. That stuff burns my skin like the dickens.

I have a shallow catch pan under the stream now. I will
run out of containers before the full tank flows to empty.
Any suggestions once the gasoline starts running down the drive into the storm sewer? Mighty explosive, I think.
Dilute it with car wash soap as it runs down the driveway?

*#&^$#^ PDO Pedro!!!! A (expletive deleted)
 
Use oil rags or some type of substitute to Boom dam the catchbasin, dont go lighting any matches!
 
Dale, you have 4 good jack stands, right? Get the car up in the air high enough that you can get underneath easily. Use an empty gasoline can and drain your fuel tank from the bottom. With some luck, you still have a compression fitting that goes into your gas tank. Maybe even that short portion of you steel gas line is still intact. Should be a rubber hose joining the steel line from the gas tank to the rest of the fuel line. If so, cut the rubber joint and use this to drain the tank. Replace the rest of the line with standard 5/16" steel fuel line, available essentially at every automotive store. Buy a long piece or two. Cheap. Run new gas line to the rear, requires some bending or pre-bending to it to snake down past the brake line. Use short pieces of rubber fuel line with new ss clamps to make the tight bend areas. You can affix he gas line to the inner rail of the frame with bailing wire, keeping it away from the exhaust line. Install a new TRF mechanical fuel pump, it uses only compression fittings. This would be a good time to not smoke a cigar.
 
Copper is NFG because it becomes brittle when it is repeatedly bent and then splits. Same motion can occur as you drive; that's why it is illegal in the US. You want the same bundy tubing as used on your brakes, only 5/16" for fuel instead of 3/16" used for brakes.

Use a short piece of rubber fuel line between the fuel pump inlet and the chassis hard line to absorb the engine vibrations. Also do the same where the fuel tank meets the chassis line.
 
kodanja said:
Use oil rags or some type of substitute to Boom dam the catchbasin, dont go lighting any matches!
Click to expand...

Exactly! You don't want to turn the Crypt into a Crematory! (or do you ... ?)


hehehehehe

Tom
 
Status: 11:20AM

Chocked passenger side wheels.
Jacked driver's side way high and put
front and back frame on jack stands.

After about 6 gallons the tank bled dry-
probably because of the steep angle it is
sitting on. Under the driver's front door,
below on the frame is 5/16 copper going into
a 6" length of 5/16 ID rubber with a TR type
clamping band. 5/16 copper going out the
other side, a small section of rubber and
then maybe a foot upward of the copper shown
in my photo.

Washed down everything with 50/50 mixture soap
and 125* hot water. Maybe only one gallon gas into
the storm drain; but cut with soap.

Another DPO Pedro nightmare! Why does nothing on the
Crypt Car cost less than $300 to repair? A simple
fuel pump changeout becomes a Nightmare on Elm Street.

What do I do with 6 gallons of contaminated gasoline
sitting in scrub buckets?

PS: Looked into the gas tank- mostly kinda new looking
red color. No flakes, or debris that I could see.

regards,

d
 
Put the gas back in. Filter it with a funnel and a coffee filter. It'll be fine. <edit> unless there is water in with it - then you have a problem...

If there is a HD or similar nearby, buy a petcock and fit it so next time you can turn the gas off (nifty anti theft feature too).

As has been said already, you can use 5/16" brake line to do this. Jubilee clips (what do you call them here, screw clamps?) will attach 5/16 rubber hose to them quite adequately for all the interconnects. It's not that bad when you get started - I wouldn't be buying custom fuel lines for it, that's for sure; not when the local autozone will have everything you need except a pipe cutter.
 
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