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TR2/3/3A Is there a timing cover seal that will last more than a couple of year?

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TuffTR250

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Is there a source for a timing chain cover seal that will last more than a couple of years. On my TR3 the seal started leaking within 3 months after I installed the new one. Not a real bad leak but a nuisance. Thanks!
Bob
 
Very likely not the seals fault. The surface that rides on it has to be perfect, too. I suggest a Speedi-sleeve and a new regular seal (preferably National or one of the well known brands).
Be sure to give the new seal a generous coating of lube, so it doesn't have to run dry at first.
 
I agree - I think the pre lube of the seal is the answer if the sealing surface is OK. Even with a Speedi-sleeve, it is important to lube the lip of the seal well or else it can pull and develop micro-tears.
 
I have replaced the front crankshaft seal three times. The first time i thought it was my fault. The second time I replaced the seal and new speedy sleeve. still leaked (not much) The third time I also replaced the speedy sleeve and seal from a different supplier, still leaked. I think that's what cardboard was invented for.
 
Another thing that is easily overlooked; there should be a fiber sealing washer on the support post. Otherwise oil can seep through the threads and the split in the lock washer.

The fiber washer doesn't seem to be included in the gasket sets, so I cut a corner off one of the unused (H4) carb gaskets and used that.
 
My experience with speedy sleeves are that they often made the hub too large and I could not get the hub to go through the seal hole, and the ones I got in did not totally fix the problem. I would get a different hub or new hub plus a new quality seal- perhaps TRF their parts are often superior and maybe some card board also.
 
As above...Must be some other problem....not the seal itself.
I suggest buying a new hub....fit the timing cover with a new seal loosely...fit the hub through the timing cover seal before carefully tightening the cover bolts...thereby ensuring that the cover seal is perfectly centralised to the hub.
 
The fiber washer that Randall mentions goes on the post under the timing cover. You can buy them from the fastener display boxes at most chain hardware stores.
Bob
 
Is there a part number for a seal by National that will fit a TR3/4 motor, and is there one for a TR250 motor? I need a new seal for my TR250 as well. Thanks!

I made the gasket for the timing cover post out of gasket material. The oil on mine is coming from the main seal.
Bob
 
Yes - Absolutely!!!!!

Contact Alexander Racing Products - Joe Alexander, he knows how to seal up the timing cover ...

Joe also Races Triumphs ...

https://www.gasketinnovations.com/
 
I just did my timing cover and seal this summer. It would drip upon engine shut down every 1-2 seconds for a full minute. If you know what a large mess a little oil can make you get the idea.

Followed all the tips above and used a speedi sleeve. I purchased an SKF oil seal from NAPA. The oil seal I replaced was a monster compared to this.

Not a lot of miles yet but so far so good. I had one single drip early on but it appears to have settled in and stayed dry. Fingers crossed because that was a sucky job. Far bigger pain than replacing my head gasket.

Bob
 
I'm going to step in with some of the things I've seen on this front seal including some things I did over the last 50 years.
Not proud but stuff happens.
Getting the seal to go on even is not the easiest thing as the crazy timing chain tensioner needs to be compressed and those of us that have put this cover on, know what a pain it is.
Tilt the cover to start the seal centered on the hub, now as soon as you push the cover to get the tensioner in place you have just turned the lip over, now you are struggling to line up the upper studs and pushing it back, all this time the spring is pulling out of it's socket in the rubber. AND YOU WONDERED WHY IT LICKED.
To see if it was installed right, just look inside the cover, sometimes the lip will be showing over a fourth of the small opening.
The secret is getting the tensioner back far enough to slide the whole thing on with major concerns of the centering of the seal with lots of lube on it. I made a tool out of a small "C" clap I cut down with a grinder to fit inside the cover. It turned out less than a 1/4 inch wide, so it could turn sideways and come out. It will take a little goop off, so put some back.
I'll try and get a picture of it, it's was left at a buddies place.
I just remembered, had to use a small block of wood on the outside. You really have to grind most of it away and get it in the right place on the spring sucker.
Wayne
 
It would be nice to know if someone invented a "tool" that would hold the chain tensioner that would allow the timing cover to go on good and straight, and then have a way to get the "tool" back out. Or even just leave the tool in, if that's even possible. Sounds crazy, but who knows what may be invented!
Bob
 
I don't understand the problem. The cover is located by two dowels plus the support in the middle, the seal doesn't even touch while installing the cover.
Glue the gaskets in place with your favorite goop, then offer up the cover over to the side so the spring goes inside. Now push it sideways to compress the spring, until it slips over the support post and dowels. Maybe some will try to slip off, but mine just hung there while I put a nut and washer on the post, then started all the other bolts.

Of course I usually forget the ground strap, but it can be added later. Make sure you use the right screws at the bottom, where they go into the aluminum sealing block. I forget the length offhand, but it's both unusual and important.
 
TuffTR250 said:
Is there a part number for a seal by National that will fit a TR3/4 motor, and is there one for a TR250 motor? I need a new seal for my TR250 as well. Thanks!

I made the gasket for the timing cover post out of gasket material. The oil on mine is coming from the main seal.
Bob
Click to expand...
If you haven't in the past, the next time follow the sequence in Bentley for your 250 whereby the cover is installed before installing the oil seal sleeve. That will tilt the lips of the oil seal inward, toward the engine rather than outward, toward the damper as they would if installed before installing the cover.
 
Buddy can't find the tool, so I checked around and found a easier way, would have saved a bunch of trouble. Hope this will help.
Don't know why I had never seen or just forgot this little line.
I put it in the Triumph Experience, just easier to put in a picture off my computer.

https://www.triumphexp.com/phorum/read.php?8,1479413


Wayne
 
Totally agree with TR3driver, there is nothing with the timing cover to center or play with 2 dowels en the post in the center, so first placing the timing cover and then slipping after the hub on the shaft. Nothing wear the hub except be rusted from a old motor. What can still be a problem is the quality of the oil seal. IMO
 
Bob, looks like the 250 and Gt6/TR6 engines, along with the Spitfires are real easy, so we are in the minority in having trouble getting the seal in place. I have screwed myself upside down trying to get the thinner cover of these engines on, certainly I've been doing it wrong.
Or could it be the tractor engines have a much wider cover and they can indeed have the tensioner slipped over the chain before touching the front seal on the crank extension. Fancy that, learn something every day.
I'll leave it to the experts from now on.

Wayne
 
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