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Gliderman8

Gliderman8

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OK, I'm just about done installing new thrust washers.
Since I dropped the pan, I will be filling it back up with oil and getting ready to start it (TR6).
What's the proper procedure to start after refilling the sump?
Do I remove the coil wire and crank it until I get oil pressure, then start it?
Any advice gladly accepted!
And one more question... This will be the third oil change since a total rebuild... can I or should I consider synthetic oil or just stick with regular oil?
 
On the starting question, yes I would pull the coil wire and the plugs so it can spin a little faster, then crank until you are getting oil pressure, if you didn't have it all apart, put a new pump in, etc. it should be all primed and this should be no problem, but still a good idea to see if you have oil pressure before start up.

Lots of opinions on oil, I have never used a full synthetic, I am sure they make some good oil, but they seem awful pricey to me. You want something with ZDDP in it, once again there have been lots of discussions on this, good luck.

Greg
 
Gliderman8 said:
And one more question... This will be the third oil change since a total rebuild... can I or should I consider synthetic oil or just stick with regular oil?
Click to expand...

You may want to consider Brad Penn Racing Oil with Zinc and Phosphorous additives. This is what I use in my TR4.

Here is the website to locate a dealer.

https://locator.bradpennracing.com/Default.aspx
 
Thanks for the info guys.
 
Elliot, if it was a total rebuild why were you changing the thrust washers?
 
Good question don...
Here's the story: After the total rebuild I ran the car for one season and had an annoying leak from the front oil seal. I removed the timing cover and replaced the seal. While the cover was off, I decided to check the end float and low and behold it was out of spec.
When I did the rebuild, I just installed the stock thrust washers and never gave it a thouht that there were larger or custom (Scott Helms) ones available. So I just decided to tackle that job too.
Now, don't you have some floor to nail down?
 
If I was closer I'd come in a min...... it's better than what I'm doing now :wall:
 
One additional note Elliot, Brad Penn Racing Oils are made from 100% Pennsylvania Grade Crude.

I grew up in Beaver Falls so just had to add this.
 
Thanks for the info Phil. I did have a look at their website and the closest place that sells the product is about 40 miles away. Doesn't pay to ship it.
 
Buy a couple of cases and split it with some motor heads.
That's what happened here.
 
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