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MGB Is it worth doing the Shock Conversion Kit or Rebuilding Exsisting shocks?

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CZ_Dave

CZ_Dave

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I'm looking into the Shock Conversion kits
or rebuilding a couple of pairs as I have lots of shocks
laying around the shop.
Which do you think would be more efficient?
Is there a youtube video on rebuilding MG Shocks?
 
I've never used a tube shock conversion, but it seems that many - maybe even most - think the original shocks are better for a couple of reasons. The shocks typically used in the conversion kits aren't actually designed for the MGB, but are just shocks intended for other applications that happen to be the correct size...and those other applications are heavier than the MGB. Most of them also leave the front shocks in place (without fluid) to continue to serve as an upper control arm.

World Wide in Madison WI is the most often recommended supplier of high quality rebuilt shocks. I don't know if rebuilding them yourself would require special tools, but you may have trouble sourcing any worn internal components.
 
I got all four lever-arm rebuilt shocks from World Wide Auto Parts in 2008, replacing rear tube shocks put on by the previous owner. One shock developed a leak in a short time, and Peter replaced it right away with no problem. The car feels good all the time, drives pretty much like a B-GT should. Just a satisfied customer...
https://www.nosimport.com/Lever-shocks-remanufactured/mg-b-lever-shocks
 
I read somewhere that the tube shocks with at least one kit were designed for a Chevy S10 pickup. I don't know if it's true, but if so, I don't think shocks designed for a 4000 pound truck would be ideal for a sports car of almost half that weight!
 
If your car is like most and not 100% original, I would simply go with new shocks and NOT opt for the conversion. Replace what you have since you know it is designed for our MG's. And, if I may be so bold, purchase parts like the from Basil Adams who know everything there is to know about what you need and prices are generally very good.
 
You might take a look around YouTube. There is a video by John Twist showing some of the problems that can occur with tube-shock conversions. The bottom line, as we yuppies say, is that the success of the conversion depends strongly on the design quality of the conversion kit, and you don't really know how good that quality is. Furthermore, I don't see much advantage to a tube-sock conversion--the lever shocks, in good condition, work fine.

I hate to divert people to other forums, but there was a recent thread in the MG Experience forum regarding rebuilding of Girling TD shocks; I'm sure that other makes and sizes are similar. Start with https://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?46,3173224,3173224#msg-3173224 but there is more if you look for it.

Or just send them to Peter at World Wide Auto Parts--very good work and quite reasonable.
 
Thank you everyone, for your input, I appreciate all the positive comments.
Dave
 
Sarastro said:
Or just send them to Peter at World Wide Auto Parts--very good work and quite reasonable.
Click to expand...

:iagree:
 
DrEntropy said:
:iagree:
Click to expand...
X2...I've got Peter Cs rebuilt shocks on my MGB and Bugeye and will be putting them on my TR4as when the time come. Excellent quality and a lifetime warranty!
Rut
 
For what it's worth, I had the shocks on my TD done at WWAP, and I was very pleased with the results. I'm not just repeating conventional wisdom.
 
As per JT's vid I would never go for that system where the shock is allong side the coil with bars holding it out there.

If you were to go to tube shocks you need to go for quality and something that is proven.

I got a kit locally from a guy who has worked with and on MG's his whole life and he has the system he sells on his own well used and abused B.

The system is a tubular shock mounted inside the coil. The lever arm shock is completely removed and replaced with a mount bracket for A. the top of the shock to bolt to and B to have a solid aluminium block with offset bore for the arm off a lever shock to mount to.

The aluminium block is offset to allow for camber adjustment. The block is set so you can start with -1 degree camber and by flipping the block over you can get another 1 1/2 degrees of - camber, or anything between and more by adding shims.

I also replaced the rear levers with bilsteins as well.

The tubular shocks used are non adjustable Bilsteins. The type used are selected specifically for the MGB and Bilstein are world reknown for their quality products.

I found it very good as not only did I get my suspension working (very well) with no oil leaks but I got some adjustability in the camber.

I also replaced the anti roll bar with a 7/8 one. The combined front/rear kits and the stronger roll bar has given me a great handling car.

These kits as far as I can tell are based around the same ideas Ron Hopkinson had in the 80s - 90s and he sold his kits with Bilsteins as well.

One has to compare the costs of the kits against getting the levers reconditioned. I wasn't prepared to spend money on a recon when I could get new that worked better (more camber adjustment) with the car.

Of course I replaced all the rubber components in the suspension as well and checked and replaced any bushes and bolts that needed replacing.

Cheers Rob
 
Peter rebuilt the Armstrong shocks on our 72 B and the shocks on the TF, they are perfect. I wouldn't even consider converting to a tube shock. :encouragement: PJ
 
I'll add my experience with Peter. He rebuilt the shocks on both our MGB and MGTD. One of the rear shocks on the TD started leaking and I sent it back to Peter. I got a call from him in about a week saying that they could not find where the shock was leaking, even though they could see that it was leaking and it was going to take a bit to find and fix it. Since the shock wouldn't cooperate with them finding the leak, Peter called and again told me that it was going to take more time to find the problem and I told him to take however much time was needed. After getting the shock, Peter told me that in order to find the leak, he bolted the shock to a wall in a well traveled area of his business, with instructions that every time anyone went past the shock, they were to cycle the lever up and down several times. Doing that, he not only found the leak and not only fixed it, but designed a modification to the shock to correct a deficiency from the factory (from back in the late 40s, early 50s) that was causing the leaks.

Bottom line, Peter goes above and beyond to make sure thing work for the customer - he gets my vote every time!
Cheers,
 
David_DuBois said:
I'll add my experience with Peter. He rebuilt the shocks on both our MGB and MGTD. One of the rear shocks on the TD started leaking and I sent it back to Peter. I got a call from him in about a week saying that they could not find where the shock was leaking, even though they could see that it was leaking and it was going to take a bit to find and fix it. Since the shock wouldn't cooperate with them finding the leak, Peter called and again told me that it was going to take more time to find the problem and I told him to take however much time was needed. After getting the shock, Peter told me that in order to find the leak, he bolted the shock to a wall in a well traveled area of his business, with instructions that every time anyone went past the shock, they were to cycle the lever up and down several times. Doing that, he not only found the leak and not only fixed it, but designed a modification to the shock to correct a deficiency from the factory (from back in the late 40s, early 50s) that was causing the leaks.

Bottom line, Peter goes above and beyond to make sure thing work for the customer - he gets my vote every time!
Cheers,
Click to expand...

Brilliant! I I too have a rebuilt shock from Peter. That said, I am really trying to imagine where he mounted the shock?

toilet handle? :grin:
 
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