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TR2/3/3A Is it possible to buy stronger springs for turn signal lever in control head?

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TuffTR250

Jedi Warrior
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I have taken apart my steering wheel control head and replaced a couple of parts and greased with Dry Moly and white lithium grease. The turn signal lever moves real well on and off but will not self cancel with the cancelling ring. I have replaced the ring with one that has the slit in the top and has no wear at all. I even tried making the "dogs" longer by epoxying small pieces of aluminum to the flat ends of them. It still does not cancel even with those longer "dogs", but they rub even when the turn signal lever is not on. So I have gone back to the original "dogs". I've tried stretching the return springs by hand but that did not help. So I'm wondering if it would be possible to buy stronger/longer springs that push the return lever back to the off position. Not sure that would do the job, or create other problems. Does any one know where I might buy new stronger/longer springs to give it a try? Thanks!
Bob
 
Bob,
It sounds like you are more into this than most of us ever get. But isn't the return action a function of the stem that fits down into the tube that goes down the steering column? If that portion of the control head is down into the tube and located properly with the knurled ridges into the slot, the turn signals should return to the neutral position. Do you have an adjustable steering column?
 
Are you sure the canceling ring is being moved through the position where it forces the relevant "dog" back into the switch? The wheel has to turn far enough in the direction you are signalling for the dog to slide over the hump; then far enough back for the hump to force the dog into the switch.

A weak return spring might let the lever not return all the way, but I can't see it not moving at all. If it doesn't move at all, I think there must be something else wrong. And stronger springs would probably keep it from latching into the "on" positions (which happens to me sometimes even with original springs).
 
I put those little beveled shape pieces in backwards before. If I remember, they are kinda counterintuitive.
 
When I rebuilt mine I had an old trafficator from a TR3A, the original TR2, A purchased Ebay one, and one that came on a telescoping wheel From Marv. Four total. I used the new repro one, and it only cancelled to the left. After R&R’ing it 4 times, I finally realized some of the plastic never fully populated the mold, so a portion of the cancel mechanism was forever unserviceable. I then went through the 3 others, which all had great parts, but were too sun baked to re-use, looking for a replacement piece.

I found that not a single pair used the same exact parts. I had to purchase a 5th unit, which is still working great 3 years running.

What I am trying to get at is that there have been many, many, many small variations to the mechanism over the TR production run. If you are mixing and matching, it may be more complicated than just a spring rate.
 
I second the comment about the beveled shape pieces might be in backwards.
They should both have their pointed sides face down and their long side edges facing to the outside
 
PAsfykk.jpg
 
In the picture of the control head, it look like the center spring does not put enough pressure on the little metal roller to make the little dogs flex to make the signal lever return to center.
 
It's a little hard to see, but the roller is actually still caught in the groove that carries the dog; which is holding the lever in the turn position. When the canceling ring rotates a bit farther, and the tip of the dog is on the highest part of the cam, the dog will be forced higher so the roller won't be caught and the lever will move.

I didn't have enough hands to get a photo with it moving :smile:
 
My TR6 cancels only one way depending on where the lever sits at the time. I can rotate it back and forth a bit. You know what? I hand cancel when necessary.
 
I had a Healey 100, basically the same mechanism (though the parts aren't interchangeable), I had it apart many many times, finally got it to reliably signal, never got it to reliably cancel. I am kind of OCD about everything working right on my cars, but eventually let that one go.
 
Some times with a 6 the 'bump' on the shaft is not aligned well or the switch and stalk are not fitted tight.
 
Just a thought if this is still a problem. If the spring does not fully compress in either direction when operating. What about just adding an additional washer or two to each end?
 
I finally did get it working correctly. Mine only had washers at the top of the springs. I added some at the bottom as well. Thanks!
Bob
 
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