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Is an epoxy patch ok on a fuel tank?

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T

TR4CB

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Found the leak in my tank. Slight crack where the vent drain insert meets the tank. Will a few coats of epoxy suffice or will this soon fail? Also there appears to be a fair amount of rust inside the tank, though the tank on the whole is very solid. Is the rust breaking up going to cause a major blockage in the fuel feed ? Thanks
 
The fuel tank is just something that I would never take a chance with. Gas pretty much eats most adhesives right up after a time. Buying a new tank is relatively cheap insurance IMO.
 
Ebay occasionally has them. Also check the VTR website, there is a guy who is parting out an early TR4 in Tennessee I think who probably can hook you up. Just look at the VTR parts for sale section. If you can't locate one easy, pm me and I know of one or two other source here in Texas which might work.

Good luck!
Randy
 
I had a similar leak around the sending unit on the LE....Just for a laugh I bought a fuel tank repair kit for the local auto parts store...It was like 2 pasty sticks that you mix together to form a putty that you then fill/cover the leak with.....I did't expect much, but it's still there today(and has been there about 3 years) with no leaks at all! Might be worth a try.
 
TRF carries them... aluminum version, but the price...YEESH! $600.00.

But it's listed as fitting a TR4-6, so if Moss sells one for the TR6, it might fit yours.
 
Actually that last comment makes me think a used TR6 unit might be a reasonable drop-in replacement - anyone know?

Randy
 
TR4CB, go to a motorcycle shop and get there tank repair kit, a three part system. Take out your tank and clean as best that you can. If you can take it to a radiator shop and get it tanked to remove the rust. Follow the instructions and you will have a tank that will never rust from the inside again. It's a sealer on the last coat. Cost about $50 last one I did. If you don't get this done you will have to carry a air pump to keep blowing your line out at the most awkward times. Wayne
 
You did say a crack at the vent? I was going to suggest the putty-epoxy kits mentioned above for the repair. Like the others above, I don't trust epoxy on things that stay wet with gas but if this is just a vent I'd certainly give it the repair kits a try. As Trrdster2000 says, you can always have the tank lined. Motorcycle shops may do this as do some radiator shops. You can also buy DIY kits from places like Eastwood and POR-15.
 
I would echo Shannon's sentiments on not taking chances with the gas tank. However, in my younger days I had pretty rough 280Z that developed about a 2" crack in the gas tank. At the time I hardly had enough money for gas, much less enough to purchase another tank. So I broke out the devcon liquid steel and patched it up. Worked like charm. Wonder where that car is.
Good Luck.
 
Hello TR$,

I'm with TR7, have it brazed or welded; not as crazy or dangerous as it may sound. I have welded a few tanks in my time just by filling them with water to the brim and having the repair at the top.

Alec
 
hi,
there are poeple out there that repair and rubber line gas tanks. there is one in my local area, but that won't help you (vancouver canada). they have to sand blast the entire inside to do it otherwise the stuff won't stick and last. they cut holes in the tank to access for the sand blasting (it's very important to do this). there are kits out there to do it yourself but if you do not do the blasting prep you will have problems later. they weld up all the holes after blasting (and any other areas).
it will then never rust or leak. outside is coated as well.
if you do not have a concourse car then this is a great way to go.
the tr4 tank has baffles in it and i understand the tr6 tank does not. if you corner hard you may want to stick with the tr4 tank.
rob
ps-i could have a spare tank i have done for you and send it.lining costs about $300 canadian and i would want $50 for the tank. i would have to get a firm quote and you would have to pay shipping-rob
 
Sandblasting the inside for lining isn't necessary if the tank is properly cleaned and chemically etched.

I know tanks can be welded but that's always scared me. I have repaired a number of small holes on drained tanks by soldering them using acid flux and a rather large, electric plumber's soldering iron. As with any soldering on steel, prep work is key to getting a good joint or bead.
 
i guess i depends on what the lining material is. the guy i've used has done tanks where the lining came off (owner done)that was done without blasting ( using a kit for this purpose). if the liner comes off you are left with a big problem. to me it's not worth the risk.
rob

rob
 
Bill Hirsch and POR 15 both sell a gas tank sealing kit. I believe you drain the tank, pour in the etch, slosh it around, drain it and pour in the sealer, slosh it around and let it dry. If you combine this with one of the epoxy tank repair systems mentioned above you may be in good shape.
One thing you can do to test your repair is to fill the tank with water and pressurize it. The difficulty here will be sealing the filled neck to allow the pressure to build.
I have a 24 gallon fiberglass tank on my boat. It's almost 20 years old and does not leak. The fancy definition of fiberglass is glass fibers in an epoxy matrix. The matrix is the resin. Some resins are better than others. A fiberglass tank could resist corrosion from fuels for a lifetime, provided the correct resin is employed. Having said that, I wouldn't recommend a fiberglass repair to a metal tank unless someone like West Marine has a foolproof system.
 
I just saw this thread - was in Fl for a few days. $600 is insane. I had a custom oversize stainless tank made for less than that...
 
Hi, I'm throwing my vote in with the recommendations to weld or braze. If it's a stress crack it will only continue to propagate, likely making the epoxy cure temporary at best. The lining cures will work, but that inner surface truly has to be pristine for good adhesion.
I had a new tank bottom added to my TR3 tank about 8 years ago for about $75 as I remember. They did a terrific job, got rid of the seam along the bottom and accurately replaced the fittings. I suspect it would cost $200 now, but I'll bet there's an equally competent shop somewhere near you. Goodluck.
Tom Lains
TS8651
TS58107
 
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