Insulating Rear Fenders

[Patrick67BJ8]

I saw this photo on the web a while back (don't know who it belongs to), and I want to know of anyone knows why this was done? My Healey never had insulation like this at the rear fender/shroud area. My car is going to be assembled for exterior paint this week at the body shop so I need to act fast with info on this to the body shop if I decide to do it.
Thanks,

 

[TravisTowle]

You want to keep aluminum and steel apart to stop them from eating each other up.


Travis
topeka, kansas

 

[Hawkscoach]

its called electrolysis. When you put dissimilar metals together it creates a "battery" so think about what a battery does..........it corrodes. Steel against Aluminum = problem. Solution is to add space and/or insulate/separate. Hope this helps in a simplistic way......

Doug

 

[stevebn2bj7]

Agreed, this is why that person did that. If you can do it without making the body fit improperly it may be a good idea. The other issue with the electrolysis is that water, moisture, salt etc accelerate the process. Also when we paint the cars today we take much better care in making sure all surfaces are covered with epoxy primer, paint etc to keep the dissimilar metals from actually touching. Your restored car should not have the problems the original cars did because of this.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Agreed, this is why that person did that. If you can do it without making the body fit improperly it may be a good idea. The other issue with the electrolysis is that water, moisture, salt etc accelerate the process. Also when we paint the cars today we take much better care in making sure all surfaces are covered with epoxy primer, paint etc to keep the dissimilar metals from actually touching. Your restored car should not have the problems the original cars did because of this.

I decided not to put the sealer on my car as shown. The sealer would possibly affect the panel fit and then there's the drainage issue(the same as on the shroud to fender fit), dirt and water get in and they must be able to get out. When the dirt and water can't drain you'll have the problem as discussed. Then there's the original frame flex which results in the metal and aluminum rubbing together which I no longer have because it's a Jule frame. Also, all areas have received plently of primer and paint which was lacking on the original cars. Speaking of metal to metal, I've never seen sealer on the lower rear shroud where it is attached with rivets to the trunk floor. Same for the front shroud.

While it looked like something that I needed to consider while the car is going back together I no longer feel that way about it. I have left out the sealer that was used on the shroud edges to fenders for the same reason....water that goes in must be able to drain out. I'm also using special bolts that will help keep the panels from moving when they are bolted together. Thanks for all the posts!

 

[Bob_Spidell]

I put seam sealer on the two flanges ('lips?') when I replaced my BJ8's boot pan. I believe that is meant to be a (more or less) waterproof fit. However, the boot pan had rusted through but the shroud-pan seam was OK (there was some minor pitting on the shroud about the seam).

 

[andrea]

I saw this photo on the web a while back (don't know who it belongs to), and I want to know of anyone knows why this was done? ,

The anti corrosion joint strip from AH spare, are so tick that not involved problems to fit the shroud in the exact position , and this MOD never appear and is hidden (for concurs cars), advantage are better sealing boot area, less electrolytic problems, and less body sound trouble
when car is on the road
Cheers