Instrument Panel Lights

[LAW75]

Hello friends. I have a few questions re panel lights on my '66 AH 3000 MkIII BJ8 (phase 2) and I am certain you can guide me.

FIRST, I need to replace my tach light bulb. Would someone kindly guide me through this; how and what needs to be done? Any reference to a Moss part would be helpful.

SECOND, very strange, but when I turn on my panel switch the tach immediately goes to 0 and does not move again until I turn off the panel switch. Obviously wires must be crossed, but what do I need to do to fix this?

THIRD, somehow the directional switch is now positioned at "10 o'clock." Don't know how it shifted there. Tried to push it back to "12 o'clock," but no movement. Any thoughts on how to fix it to "true north"?

FOURTH and last (for now), when I turn the directional in either direction, both indicator directional lights go on. What are your thoughts?

Much appreciated and thanks.

 

[AUSMHLY]

1st, get under the dash, pull the tach light bulb holder straight out. Replace the E10 2.2w filament bulb. You may be able to find one at your local hardwares store, or online.

2nd, find the wiring diagram in your workshop manual and trace the wires going to the tach panel switch.

3rd, Can you post a photo. Is the control head not out of alignment?

4th, find the wiring diagram in your workshop manual and trace those wires. If you don't find wires wrong, you may have to open control head assembly. You can find out how to do that by doing a search here on BCF. You don't need undo any bullet connectors nor remove the olive. You just need to make sure you have enough slack to pull the wires up the tube enough to pull the trafficator up enough to work on it.

 

[LAW75]

Thanks again, master helper!!! Dont know if picture will attach...photo shows, with tires pointing straight, steering wheel off center and so is directional indicators. Dont know how it happened other then while in mechanics possession. Thoughts? Direction to fix? Does horn/directional switch system come off steering wheel easily? and how?

 

[Bob_Spidell]

This switch--the whole unit is called a 'trafficator' in Brit-speak--is held in position by a long tube called a 'stator.' The stator, through which the wires for the trafficator assembly run, is anchored at the front of the steering box by a brass plumber's olive--usually sliced lengthwise--and a basin nut. You can loosen the nut and rotate the trafficator hub--the black Bakelite assembly with the horn press button in the middle--to the desired position (usually 12 o'clock, the trafficator hub may move when you tighten the nut). Note you will likely lose some fluid from the steering box, so place rags or a bowl under it before loosening the nut. I recommend leaving space, 1/32" or so, between the trafficator hub and the steering wheel hub (the gap usually varies), so the steering wheel hub doesn't drag the trafficator to the wrong position.

What work did your mechanic do?

ps. Sometimes, unfortunately, the olive will not re-seal and you'll get a leak from the steering box, in which case you'll have to disconnect the trafficator wiring harness and thread the nut off and replace it. Torquing the basin nut can deform the olive--you'll have a ridge where it was clamped to the steering box--and you can flip it over and it'll seal (assuming this hasn't been done before). If that doesn't work you'll need a new olive.

 

[BobHaskell]

If you have an adjustable steering wheel, the stator tube is actually two pieces. The short tube is attached to the control head (trafficator). The other end of that tube has three dimples in a line. The long tube sticks out the steering box as Bob described. The other end has an axial slot. The long tube fits inside the short tube, with the dimples riding in the slot. That allows the stator tube to change length when you adjust the steering wheel position (fore/aft). The dimples/slot prevent the short tube from rotating when you turn the steering wheel. Cracks can develop at the corners of the slot, weakening the log tube and the dimples may have jumped out of the slot. If the steering wheel moves fore/aft freely, probably not the case.

 

[LAW75]

If you have an adjustable steering wheel, the stator tube is actually two pieces. The short tube is attached to the control head (trafficator). The other end of that tube has three dimples in a line. The long tube sticks out the steering box as Bob described. The other end has an axial slot. The long tube fits inside the short tube, with the dimples riding in the slot. That allows the stator tube to change length when you adjust the steering wheel position (fore/aft). The dimples/slot prevent the short tube from rotating when you turn the steering wheel. Cracks can develop at the corners of the slot, weakening the log tube and the dimples may have jumped out of the slot. If the steering wheel moves fore/aft freely, probably not the case.

This switch--the whole unit is called a 'trafficator' in Brit-speak--is held in position by a long tube called a 'stator.' The stator, through which the wires for the trafficator assembly run, is anchored at the front of the steering box by a brass plumber's olive--usually sliced lengthwise--and a basin nut. You can loosen the nut and rotate the trafficator hub--the black Bakelite assembly with the horn press button in the middle--to the desired position (usually 12 o'clock, the trafficator hub may move when you tighten the nut). Note you will likely lose some fluid from the steering box, so place rags or a bowl under it before loosening the nut. I recommend leaving space, 1/32" or so, between the trafficator hub and the steering wheel hub (the gap usually varies), so the steering wheel hub doesn't drag the trafficator to the wrong position.

What work did your mechanic do?

ps. Sometimes, unfortunately, the olive will not re-seal and you'll get a leak from the steering box, in which case you'll have to disconnect the trafficator wiring harness and thread the nut off and replace it. Torquing the basin nut can deform the olive--you'll have a ridge where it was clamped to the steering box--and you can flip it over and it'll seal (assuming this hasn't been done before). If that doesn't work you'll need a new olive.

Hey Bob. I would love to have a talk re your last question..."what work did your mechanic do", if you are willing to spend some time on the phone. If agreeable, please give a call when you are free. Thanks. 732-887-0742

 

[Bob_Spidell]

If you have an adjustable steering wheel, the stator tube is actually two pieces. The short tube is attached to the control head (trafficator). The other end of that tube has three dimples in a line. The long tube sticks out the steering box as Bob described. The other end has an axial slot. The long tube fits inside the short tube, with the dimples riding in the slot. That allows the stator tube to change length when you adjust the steering wheel position (fore/aft). The dimples/slot prevent the short tube from rotating when you turn the steering wheel. Cracks can develop at the corners of the slot, weakening the log tube and the dimples may have jumped out of the slot. If the steering wheel moves fore/aft freely, probably not the case.

Begs the question why no vendor, that I know of, sells a stator with the corners of the slot radiused so they'd be less inclined to crack.

 

[Rreford]

Anyone know how to source the seals that go on the inside and outside of the firewall for the stator tube? Mine are shot, looks like a felt material between the square plates and the bulkheads, then large grommets for the tube passing through the square plates. I don't see either one in any diagrams I've found so far. I'm removing the tube for some rust repair and engine bay repainting.

 

[John Turney]

They are Moss 682-215.

 

[red57]

Ahead4Healeys part # for the rubber grommets is SG4130. Felt gaskets are SG4137 (or you can make your own out of felt)
https://www.ahead4healeys.co.uk/STEERING--SG--ct189.aspx