Installing Trailing Arm Bushes

[arbs_53]

It's been a while since I posted anything, but I haven't been far- lurking in the shadows you might say. I've already put more miles on the TR250 than I did in all of last summer, and with all of the rain we've had so far, that's saying a lot.
However, this weekend I'm driving the car up to my brother-in-law's to use his garage to replace the original differential unit with a newly reconditioned unit from John @ Quantum Mechanics. While I have the car up on jacks, I intend on replacing the trailing arm bushes with urethane and install Richard Goods' adjustable mounting brackets. I remember reading somewhere that there is a certain procedure to follow before tightening these bushes up. Can anyone shed some light on the proper way to do it? Is it explained pretty clearly in Bentleys?

 

[DougF]

When installing the bushings, I just use a piece of threaded rod about 8" in length, 2 flat washers and 2 nuts. I believe 3/8 diameter works well.
Once you get the old out, just line everything in place and start tightening. If memory serves me correct, urethane bushings are two-part, and they will slide right into position. If one part, you will need a large socket or something similar to allow the bushing to run through to the other side.

 

[jerrybny]

I got my trailing arm bushings and brackets from good parts and yes they were 2 parts. I just tapped them into place

 

[Leebo]

I believe for the original bushings, you're supposed to do the final tightening once the weight is on the wheels. If you're using RGood's setup with a sleeve in the center I don't think it should matter since it should pivot freely btw the sleeve and the bush. My recollection on this was though that you needed to hone the trailing arm so that the bushing will slide in fairly freely - all of which was detailed in Richard's installation instructions.

-Lee

 

[Tinster]

I replaced the TA bushings 2 months ago. I made a tool to push/pull the rubber replacement bushings I installed. I used a 16" length of 3/8" diameter all-thread, two sets of three increasing size steel washers and 3 3/8" nuts. Two 3/8" wrenches are required. Turn them in opposition to each other to slide the bushings.

The tool worked like a charm for removing the shot bushings and inserting the new ones. A little bit of oil on the rubber bushings helped prise them into position.

If you have use of a high lift, check the right front diff mount while you have the opportunity. It might be cracked - mine was.

tinster in PR

 

[Tinster]

Here in photos is the step by step procedure with bushings tool.

https://community.webshots.com/album/549568714aDQPPa

 

[vettedog72]

Hey great shots! Makes me want to chnage MY bushings. How can I save all these helpful pictures?

 

[MarkT]

Fantastic pictures. Oh to have a lift.....and a master mechanic!
________________________
MarkT
'76 TR6

 

[arbs_53]

Thanks for the help guys. Greatly appreciated.
One more question. Is there any way to be certain that I have the alignment close enough so I can drive the car home, about 65 miles, before I can get it to an alignment shop?

 

[martx-5]

When we put those adjustable brackets on one of the TR6s' at a club tech session, we used one of these angle tools and a rule across the top and bottom of the tire sidewall to approximate the camber angle. I think we set it at about 1 deg negative. I would think that toe-in, toe-out can also be effected by these adjustments, but the car owner just brought it to the alignment shop after installation. He said he had no problems driving the car there. I suppose you could also just use a carpenter's level on the tire to see that the camber is close to zero. Even with zero camber, it should be OK to drive to the 65 miles. If there is anything really out of whack, you will feel it right away. Messed up camber in the back will be less of a problem them too much toe-out. Then things get squirelly.