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Installing trafficator

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mbrooks

mbrooks

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I'm just about to install a rebuilt trafficator/horn push assembly on my BN2. Since it didn't have one when I bought the car, I have a few questions.

1. It is a non-adjustable column car with the full-length stator tube, which is still installed. I need to take it out since PO has sawn off the three screws at the top. I need to remove the stator tube to take out the remains of the screws. Will the olive at the bottom simply slide off when I undo the nut? Can I re-use the olive?

2. How does the cancelling ring fit? Does it go under the steering wheel nut? What stops it from rotating relative to the steering wheel?

3. Anything else I need to be aware of? Any consumables I need to get? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Thanks in advance for any help.

Mike
 
Hi Mike

This is quite easy. Remove the nut and olive. Should come right off. Get a new olive, especially if you are ordering other stuff. They are merely cents. The old one might be to munged up to seal correctly. There is a special slit in it, unlike plumbing store olives that look quite the same.

My stator tube is about 3/4 inch out from the bottom of the steering box. Hopefully you will have enough tube to weld back onto the top piece where it was cut off. If not, you will have to make some sort of sleeve to extend the tube somewhere (but not at the bottom, as the hold in the steering box cover is only so big.)

The stator tube bottom nut holds the whole top mechanism in place! Since my car has an after market steeing wheel, I had to attach a tang to the inside of the steering wheel hub to actuate the ring. Not too hard, but took a couple of attempts to get one the right shape and size. I used a small screw and some epoxy to hold it tight in the right spot.

If the steering box contains oil, it will all drain out, so you may have to refill. I used the Penrite stuff, kind of a strange thicker than oil, softer than grease material. Works find and does not ooze out.

And the steering wheel nut goes on first, then the stator tube. Be sure it does not go down so far as to allow the trafficator to contact the steering wheel. I fabricated a bushing that fit at the top of the stator tube just inside the rotating steering tube. (real high tech: a few wraps of masking tape on the stator tube, covered with a bit of white lithium grease.)


All the best. Let us know how it goes.
 
Well Mike, 1. Simply loosening the olive will free the tube and it can be with drawn. However, if the gearbox is full of oil removing the tube will also free the oil inside. 2. Nothing goes under the steering wheel nut except its keeping washers. 3. The three screws you refer to can be the grub nuts in the steering wheel hub which lock the trafficator in place,but which ever ones were sawn off make sure you have the correct replacements.-FWIW===Keoke
 
1. It is a non-adjustable column car with the full-length stator tube, which is still installed. I need to take it out since PO has sawn off the three screws at the top. I need to remove the stator tube to take out the remains of the screws. Will the olive at the bottom simply slide off when I undo the nut? Can I re-use the olive?
-------------------
Usually if you remove the nut the split olive will slide off. The lube in the steering box will leak out. Sometimes the olive will be sort of crimped from overtightening the nut. If someone used an olive without a split down the side, it will be considerably more difficult.

2. How does the cancelling ring fit? Does it go under the steering wheel nut? What stops it from rotating relative to the steering wheel?
-----------------------
There are two parts to the cancelling ring. One part clamps under the steering wheel nut with a tab extending back toward the driver. The second part is a cast aluminum cancelling ring/cam which meshes withe the previous part & actually does the cancelling.

3. Anything else I need to be aware of? Any consumables I need to get?
-------------------------
The hardest part may be getting the wires through the steering shaft. The can be disconnected somewhere in the front near the steering box. If the three connectors can be staggered & taped small enough to go through the hole, attach a fish wire or string to them so that it will feed up inside the column as the stator tube is withdrawn. This is the only way to get the wires back down the column when you put things back together. If the connectors will not go through the hole they will need to be removed.

If you take the actual indicator assembly apart use extreme care to note exactly which parts go where & their orientation. It might be best to take it apart inside a bucket to catch the many flying parts.

If for some reason you wish to remove the wheel, there is sometimes a burr at the bottom of the wheel splines which can make removal very difficult. I won't go into this now. If you have trouble some suggestions are available.
D
 
Keoke & Brian,
The BN2 non adjustable steering column & trafficator are quite a bit different in detail than the ones that you describe.
D
 
Thanks to all for responses, and thanks Dave also for the pic of the "other part" of the cancelling arrangement. I have the part "which clamps under the steering wheel nut with a tab extending back toward the driver" - I will check tonight if the other part is fitted.

Rgds

Mike
 
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif Sorry about that poor planning on their part, should have made them all alike---Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif Sorry about that poor planning on their part, should have made them all alike---Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

[/ QUOTE ]
I think it is supposed to be called progress.
D
 
One other thing, in BJ7 and 8's the cancelling device needs to be positioned so that it is centered as well as possible between the cancelling tabs with the wheels in the straight forward position. Otherwise the turn signals will usually self cancel in one direction only. Don't know if it's the same for your car.
 
do you know where I can find trafficator installation instructions. I took mine apart (BN2) just so I could polish the bakelite, and can't get the three screws into any threads.
 
HI Tmoc,somwhere in the archives is a reference to a set of instructions.However, with the Bakelite part in your hand upside down you should see a brass ring and three exposed threaded brass mounting holes in the bakelite. At the end of the stator tube is a fixed plate with matching holes, just above that plate is a thin positonable plate that when positioned correctly will line up with the holes in the thick plate.If you now marry the bakelite part to the end of the stator tube assy you should now be able to insert the three screws through the matching holes and secure them in the bakelite part.I Hope this helps you out.---Keoke
 
Keoke, he's not talking about the 3 screws on the back, but the 2 horn contact screws and 1 mounting screw on the front under the bakelite. This was where I went wrong. I included the trafficator link in my post on my thread. It's one of those links that we need to keep around here, since it seems that someone always needs it.
 
OH My Gosh! Yes SHG, if you take those little fellas out and do not pay close attention you got a real problem on reassembly.---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif
 
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