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Installing New Water Pump

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CharlieCarpenter

CharlieCarpenter

Senior Member
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Getting ready to install a new water pump on my 63 BJ7. Was told I should
"run it in" for ten minutes on a lathe before installing in the vehicle or it
may leak. Any ideas on that theory from the more experienced folks out
there?

It looks like I will need to move or remove the radiator, remove the fan and
belt, pull the pump; then reverse the process. Being a novice
mechanic.....is there anything special I need to look out for? What type of
gasket compound is best?

Thanks in advance.

Charlie Carpenter
 
Hi Charlie, I have read about runing the water pump in dry.However, I can only recall a single instance where it was reported that initial failure of a new pump installation was the result of failing to run it in dry.I have never used this technique and have had no adverse experiences with water pump replacements.I might point out there is the possibility that the pump's out line and the fitting space on the engine may require you to grind the outer edge of the pump a bit to fit.Check its fit before final installation. I think any good gasket sealant is acceptable in this application.--FWIW--Keoke
 
Hi, Charlie, I agree with Keoke in that "running in" a water pump in not necessary. I've put tons in Mini Coopers, with never a problem. Also, do check the fit with a gasket in place first, to check for any interference. Then, I always used that blue gasket sealer from Permatex - great products!

By the way......is that a picture of your black BJ7 on the AHCUSA website? If so, looks good!
Our car is going into the Healey Conclave concours at the end of June this year. Perhaps you could take a look at some pictures and see if you see anything wrong with it ?

https://calabashcattery.com/4images

Appreciate it so much!
Best regards,
 
Keoke: Thanks for advice. I appreciate it.
pbraun: Thanks also. Beautiful pictures. I'm afraid my BJ7 is a simply a very nice driver, not Concours. Mine is BRG with Cinnamon interior; neither original options in 1963. See mine at www.ccarpenter.net. Actually I've redone interior since those photos were taken.
Charlie
 
Charlie
Do NOT run the pump dry in a lathe. The seal is meant to run in engine coolant, which has a lubricant formulated into it, and also will cool the seal. If you run it in a lathe friction between the ceramic seal and the phenolic bellows will heat up the phenolic material melting it and depositing it on the ceramic seal face and it will leak, maybe not at first but shortly thereafter. As a Product Eng. I helped chase this one for 10 years. We had a 20% leak rate in-plant and a further 30% in the field [ they were making close to 4,500 pump/day with a standing service order of 500/day which meant every Sat & Sun the plant worked]. Root cause was in an effort to make the hub run truer, the mfg process included turning an assembed pump in a lathe like machine and take a finish cut off the fan or pully flange face. Re-processing the assembly sequences to install the bearing in the pump body assemble the flangeto the bearing, do the facing operation, then complete the pump build [seal, impeller, cover etc. ] reduced leak rejects to under 1% in-plant and field failures dropped to almost '0'.
Regards, Bob
 
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