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Tips

Installing new stator tube

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Your explanation makes it very clear. Thanks for the added information.

I am not having any problem with the repro control (other than the self-canceling never has worked properly). When I was having trouble with my control head turning with the steering wheel, and when it seemed that the nut at the end of the stator tube was "tight," I ordered a new stator tube and harness from Mark Macy.

Subsequently, I discovered that as tight as the nut was, it was not quite tight enough. When I gave it an extra twist, the control head stopped turning with the steering wheel.

Which leaves me with an unused new stator tube and wiring harness. My thought is that eventually I will install the new stator tube, and perhaps sooner I will install the new harness, or both (or just put the tube and harness away for the next owner).

I, too, don't have much confidence in the new, repro items and install them only when the benefit outweighs the potential problems.
 
It sounds like it all is working with the exception of the cancelling mechanism. If the turn signal never cancels, the tab on the control head may have broken. That would likely take a new (or good used) head to fix.

If it cancels sometimes and at odd wheel positions, you may be able to fix it by merely loosenig the set screws on the wheel, pull the control head out and spin the mounting disc to the correct orientaion. This is the steel disc behind the visible bakelite disc with the horn button. The steel disc is held to the steering wheel with the set screws, and it has the tabs that interact with the cancelling mechanism. If the wheel is turned after the control head is installed, but before the set screws lock it into place, the tabs will turn out of place. Picture how it happens:

You line everything up and slide the control head into position. Now the problem is that you have trouble seeing the set screws, as they are at odded skewed angles. So, it is only natural to turn the wheel to a position with each set screw at the top. The trouble is, when you turned the wheel, the steel cancelling disc stayed oriented to the stator tube. Now, when the disc is locked in place, you sraighten the wheel, and the disc is at some odd orientation.

For this operation you don't even need to disconnect the wires. Just pull an inch or so of slack at the gear end so the head can back out an inch.

John
 
John,

The cancelling mechanism works -- sometimes -- if I make an especially sharp turn and then straighten out quickly. Otherwise, it doesn't cancel. As usual, the people who installed my new control head said "Oh, that's just a normal problem with these things....."

The control head was brand new when it was installed two years ago, and the self cancelling mechanism hasn't worked since it was installed.

If I loosen the set screws on the wheel, as you suggest, I still cannot move the control head out. Do I need to do something to the other end? When you say "pull" an inch or so at the gear end, do you mean push some of the wire up into the stator tube?
 
Thee reason for the split is so it can be used repeated times. Without the split it is as a Ferrell in plumbing, and would crimp onto the tube very tightly. I made a tube 2 years ago from steel tubing bought from a steel supply company. If I can do this I know about anyone can.

Crankshaft
 
Crankshaft,

I had read that somewhere else... that the split is needed for getting the olive off the tube. I didn't realize that you could reuse the olive repeated times, however.

Looking at the tube I purchased, I can see how someone with some skill could make their own, but cutting the slot at the top might be a bit much for many. Also, there's the issue of the two anti-rattle things on the tube.

Many thanks.
 
A better term would be to make sure you have at least an inch of slack in the wire at the steering gear. You may have to unscrew the set screws way out to make sure they are not binding on the back plate. Then the control head moves straight back. You may have to jiggle a good bit if it got stuck, but it just pulls out. One problem with the repro plates is they are a few thousandths too large, and this can lead to binding inside the steering wheel hub. I took a file to my backplate until I was sure it would slide in and out easily like the original did.

Once out, you can look between the horn button and the back plate and see how the canceling mechanism works. By holding the front stationary and spinning the back plate you can see clearly what is...or is not...working properly. Unlike what your mechanic said about being finicky...mine has cancelled perfectly since I installed it. I'd bet the orientation of your backplate is off...but there's always a chance one of the plastic pieces broke.

John
 
I have a little bit of slack in the harness coming out the steering box end of the stator tube, but even with the set (grub) screws entirely out on the steering wheel, I cannot pull the control head out (perhaps I'm not trying hard enough, but I'm concerned that I might break something if I pull too hard). Perhaps, as you write, it may be binding. It's also possible this old harness is pretty well stuck inside the stator tube as it is covered in fabric (old style).

Another challenge is tracing the harness from the steering box up and around the inside of the fender (made a little more difficult for me because of the HID (xenon) boxes that have been installed and partially block the way). I finally managed to trace the harness up and around the inside of the fender and found a clip holding it at the top of the wheelwell. I think the wise thing to do is to tie a string or wire to the old harness when one pulls the harness down and out the bottom of the car in preparation for either replacing the harness or replacing the harness and the stator tube. Leave the string or wire there. When the new harness is installed, use the string of wire to pull the harness back up beside the wheelwell/inside of the fender to its connection point. Otherwise, I'm not sure how you can reach a hand/arm down there to pull it up.

Does this make sense?
 
Yep, it sounds like a plan if you have to remove the wires.

I doubt it's the wire causing the jam on the head. My bet is the mechanic just shoved the oversized repo disc in to make it fit. It is touchy, as the side you are pulling on is mostly plastic and can break. I know I could not get mine to go fully in and seat, and it got stuck pretty good when I tried. When I got it out, that's when I decided to file the size down to a slip fit.

Again, I am working from memory, but you may be able to slide a flat blade screwdriver in between the head and wheel hub to pry against the metal disc...I'd recommend looking over the old control head you have to see what is in there to work against first, though.
 
Unfortunately, I didn't know enoough at the time to retain the old control head. I have learned a lot since then.

I have a friend who has lots of old TR3 parts, and I may ask him to send me an old control head that I can have just to study it.

You are probably right about the head being jammed in. I think that if I use s sturdy plastic scraper blade between the head and the wheel hub that I might be able to pry it off without damaging anything. But I'm reluctant to do it unless or until I really have to.
 
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