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TR2/3/3A Installing Coil springs on a 3a

BillJoBob said:
Hard to hone the piston holes without dissasembly though.
Also no reason to hone them. The seal rides against the sides of the piston, which should simply be replaced if it's rough or worn.

My cars have all had the earlier 'solid' calipers, and I've never felt the urge to take them apart.
 
Just wanted to ask about the tightening sequence before/after the springs are installed. will it make a difference if the trunion lock washers are left loose before installing the spring? Or should everything be tight first? The reason I ask is because now one side of the suspension ( the tightened side) seems to sit lower than the other, only slightly, and the wheel seems to sit out at the top, maybe an inch, rather than straight up and down.
Thanks!
 
Hi Bill,

I am sure the others will jump in but I will tell you what I did. I assembled mine not tight, but not loose either as I tend to assemble, get it back together and on the ground with some weight on the suspension before I torque them to what the manuals specify.

With regards to the height difference, are you sure that you got both springs seated properly with the spacers in the tops of the suspension turrets?

Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd
 
My 1958 TR3A had different heights between the top of the tires and the curved arch of the fenders for 20 years. No judge ever commented on this. When you think about it, a judge (or judges) will study one side of the car, then go to the other side. They don't think to remember what the saw on the first side. But, thanks to Dave, who sent me his spare set of aluminium spacers from his spares car - the ones that go on top, and with the help of my neighbour and his TIG welder, we added about 5/8" to one spacer and now the car is level across the front. Thanks Dave.
 
As for trying to compress the coil springs using the rafters, I know a chap in England who did this and all he did was to lift the roof right off his garage. You were lucky it worked properly.

I also know a chap in Scotland who was in the same situation and he loaded 450 pounds of patio tiles into the empty engine bay so he could compress the springs during re-assembly. It worked.
 
My Pleasure Don,

Cheers,
Dave
 
ha,ha,ha....funny stuff! I think the problem may be that the vertical link on one side may be slightly bent (1/4inch, hard to tell. Beats me...I guess I'll check that sides spring again (ugh). Thanks!
 
Hello Gents,
Just noticed that the new ball joint that was installed recently is about 1/8 to 3/16 longer on the mount length where attaches to the arms. Are these new ball joints supposed to be longer than the originals? wont this alter the camber significantly? I ordered them from TRF and expected the right parts but maybe they are for another model. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks!
 
Is it the stud that is longer, or the shoulder that the arms get clamped against?

A longer stud won't hurt anything as long as it doesn't hit the spring tower.
 
We went through something like this with one of the guys in the club. Very early TR4 that has the same upper control arms as the TR3. There was some problem with the shoulder and it gave the the front end too much positive camber. He got the ball joints from flea bay, so this experience might not apply to your situation. Anyway, he got a new set from Moss and all is OK now. There are some great buys on e-bay, but you have to be real careful about what you're buying. I would be surprised if TRF sold the wrong joints, but I guess anything is possible. Maybe they came from the same batch as the flea bay guy was selling.
 
Randall,
The new joint has a thicker shoulder which makes the distance from the control arm a bit farther than the stock part. I guess I will call TRF and have them send me another set. Any idea what the correct part number might be?
Thanks!
 
200772 should be it; or I believe RFK1303 is a kit of two of them for slightly less money.
 
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