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TR6 Installing a new dash in TR6

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Wait a minute. My heart is starting to pound a bit
here..

My nightmare has been disconnecting everything on the
dash: i.e., all gauges, speedometer, etc, etc..

I read in a repair manual one of the steps sounding
something like this: ... "then drop the dash fascia to
the 'service' position." These words have haunted me to
discover what the service position is.?

I thought, and hoped as well, that it meant it is possible
to remove the five or six screws holding the wood dash
cover on and drop the thing forward. Are you describing
something like that?

I really like the idea of having the thing drop forward,
because even though I must remove all connections anyway,
the beauty is seeing them right there and not pulling wires
from the blind possibly causing damage and ending with
something in my hand which I have no idea from whence it
came.

And folks, please forgive me if more information is
following that answers this question. I haven't read the
whole thread. Guess it's just about the way I am, but I'll
try to get better in the future, okay?

2wrench.
 
My goal in my rewire was to be able to lay the dash face down on the column with out pulling tight on the wires. That to me is the real "service position"
 
Tom, remembering my old high schoold days in woodshop,
note the word old..

Seems to me walnut would be a very nice choice for
dash. Read somewhere, can't remember where, though, that
the original finish was actually a dark walnu finish on
the dash; but that time, weather, etc has bleached most
dash woods out to a lighter color.

I'm thinking to redo the original wood; placing a dark
walnut finish... and seems to me a boating-type finish,
gloss or satin, would be good because its properties are principally designed to stand up to weather; sun and water.

Maybe more research would be advised.
 
2 wrench

the speedo and tach MUST be completely removed along with the 5 screws, then the Wood dash can be pulled away from the metal frame behind it and laid down to give access to the smaller gauges. This would be the service position they talked about.

Dr. E, the 6 has a metal backing plate behind the dash so I don't think that the Wood is load bearing on this particular car and should not be stressed too much, IMHO.

I have my wood dash out now restoring the gauges and replacing the crash pad, the windshield is removed for the installation of the dash pad.



Paul
 
Kodanja, first, very good reference to the web sites;
secondly: Gorgeous, gorgeous car! I love it!

I'm a wanna be. I wanna be like you and all the other
guys that post these beautiful cars..

But, hey, half the fun is getting there, right?

Dennis, aka 2wrench
 
Yeah, thanks, Paul. Think it's just a couple knurled
nuts; cable and lights, I suppose; but, since it is
cramped quarters, can't see, I'm a little nervous about
working in the dark.

Thought I'd go at it from the smaller gauge side by the
glovebox because I can see more what is going on and
work accross.

Guess my approach would be backwards in that case. Guess
I just have to reach; twist and pull..

Sounds almost like a dance.
 
Thanx for the compliment, but strive for better than what I have accomplished. Take the time and $$ and do it right.

mine is a good driver but far from show worthy!

tr68.jpg
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Code:</div><div class="ubbcode-body ubbcode-pre" style="height: 34px;"><pre>the windshield is removed for the installation of the dash pad.
</pre>[/QUOTE]

is this step a requirement for replacing the dash pad?
 
yes, you must remove the windshield to replace the dash pad.

2wrench, remove the driver seat and get on your back for the tach and speedo removal. The small guage wires can be removed easily from the "service position".
 
Hey, where's my answer about the new dash?
 
2wrench said:
Tom, remembering my old high schoold days in woodshop,
note the word old..

Seems to me walnut would be a very nice choice for
dash. Read somewhere, can't remember where, though, that
the original finish was actually a dark walnu finish on
the dash; but that time, weather, etc has bleached most
dash woods out to a lighter color.

I'm thinking to redo the original wood; placing a dark
walnut finish... and seems to me a boating-type finish,
gloss or satin, would be good because its properties are principally designed to stand up to weather; sun and water.

Maybe more research would be advised.
Click to expand...

The dash in mine was actually in pretty fair condition and after I got the old yellowed finish off the wood was a nice color.
dash_058.jpg

This is mine after it was refinished with no stain used.
I do think a finish that protects against UV light would be good.

And walnut is a fine choice. I would just make sure the entire dash, front back and edges are well sealed to protect against moisture. But that is just my opinion.
 
Just some more thoughts and a recap of things I've noticed on TR6 wooden dashes.

Every solid wood dash I have seen has eventually cracked. The wood dash is not a 'stressed' item but it suffers from 'twist' with scuttle shake. They don't get huge disfiguring cracks. When they crack they do so at the very edges of the dash, outside of the eyeball vents. If yours hasn't cracked yet, that's great news, but keep an eye on it. Triumph used a plywood dash with veneer for its resiliency not as a cost saving measure.

I consider my dash a hybrid. As its not quite a solid wood dash but is more than just a veneer. My dash is Walnut, custom made by a friend of mine right here in Fort Collins, and my original dash was used as the template. The Walnut is about 1/4" thick and the rest of the dash is three more layers of marine grade plywood. Its been in the car for just over 8 years now with no cracks so the hybrid theory we had when we made it is so far holding up. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

Here it is during re-assembly of the car.
0000_012.jpg


For replacing the crash pad, both the windshield frame and the wooden dash must be removed.

/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif
 
I installed a 5/8" thickness, solid teak dash and
asked a wood expert before I had the dash carved.

I asked about cracks and the expert told me if my
teak slab was age cured (12 months or more) and if
I applied a quality wood oil once per month, the
solid Teak would not crack(check) at the edges.

Maybe becaue teak is an oily wood to begin with,
makes a difference from walnut.

No cracks after 6 months.

d
 
I've seen the solid Teak dashes that Moss sells crack after about 6 months. Don't know if they are cured for 12 months though. Don't think it was oiled every month either. I also know a TR6 owner with a megabucks solid African Rosewood dash. When his cracked he was pretty peeved.

One very successful fix that I have seen for the cracks though is to fill them with an epoxy. The cracks are small enough that if you fill them with a flexible epoxy and apply your oil/stain finish again over the epoxy, that it blends pretty well. You'd never notice the crack if you didn't go searching for it in the right light.
 
Solid African rosewood?!!!!!!!!!

solid sterling silver costs less per ounce
than A. rosewood.

d
 
I have to agree with swift6 on this. Making a dash out of solid wood is really NOT the way to go. There are just too many areas in the dash that are prone to splitting. A plywood backer insures that that there will be almost no tendency to split. Because the plys, when they are glued up are at cross grain, strengthen the whole structure. Using a veneer over that, whatever the thickness, will ensure that the dash will remain intact. The idea of using a thick veneer such as swift6 used is good. That will ensure that the veneer won't have a tendency to peel off, and any minor scratches and dings won't go through the veneer. A 1/4" is a lot, 1/8" would work just fine.

The best of both worlds.

BTW, that is a beautiful dash you have there swift6 /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif
 
martx-5 said:
BTW, that is a beautiful dash you have there swift6 /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif
Click to expand...

Thanks!

Tinster said:
Solid African rosewood?!!!!!!!!!

solid sterling silver costs less per ounce
than A. rosewood.
Click to expand...

It was 'megabucks', and he carries a towel to wipe off peoples drool. It is very nice.
 
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